A Tasting of Jura Wines

Posted on October 4, 2015 by thewineraconteur

Selden Standard in Detroit had the perfect room off to the side for a private wine tasting dinner conducted by Elie Boudt of Elie Wine Company. We were going to try many offerings from Domaine Jean Bourdy from the Jura region of France, and the guest speaker was Jean-Francois Bourdy, one two brothers representing the fifteenth generation of this winery.

Bourdy Cremant du Jura NV

Prior to the actual dinner while waiting for all of the guests to arrive, there was a reception with our waiter offering poached pears and goat cheese. The wine that was being poured during this period was Bourdy Cremant du Jura NV. This was a charming sparkling wine made from Chardonnay grapes, and my Bride must have told me several times in a row, how much she enjoyed this wine and that we should get some for the holidays to serve. Great praise right out of the gate and I am sure that her wish will be fulfilled.

Bourdy Macvin du Jura NV

As we sat down for the actual dinner, and we were sitting at two long tables, the end chairs were set up, so that our hosts could rotate among everyone to discuss some of the wines during the tasting. We started off with appetizers placed on the tables to share of Halloumi and roasted peppers with olives, grapes and espellette. The accompanying pour was actually an aperitif Bourdy Macvin du Jura. The Macvin was made from all five varietals grown on the estate; Chardonnay, Savagnin, Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard. It is a mixture of the grape juice and Marc de Franche-Comte (an eau de vie or brandy) and the French laws require that both parts must be made from the grapes of the same estate. This was a very subtle drink that paired well with the appetizer.

Bourdy Cotes du Jura Savagnin 2009

Our next course was plates of Duck Sausage with autumn vegetables, fish sauce and fried shallots. This course was paired with Bourdy Cotes du Jura “Savagnin” 2009. The Savagnin is the star varietal of the Jura and the wine is aged for four to five years in old barrels. I noticed that on the website that the Domaine was offering the 2007 vintage, so we were actually getting a sneak peek at an early offering. This wine should be opened three to four hours prior to serving, and it can be cellared for ages, which is not the usual case with most white wines. While the wine by itself has a nutty Sherry flavor to it, against the spicy duck sausage, one could really appreciate the subtle sweetness of the fruit.

Bourdy Cotes du Jura Rouge 2010

The last course of the meal that I will discuss here was a Rabbit Ragu on Cavatelli, with house ricotta and pistachios. We had the only red wine for the evening with this dish, which was Bourdy Cotes du Jura Rouge 2010. This wine was made from Pinot Noir, Poulsard and Trousseau grapes that are aged in barrels for three to four years before bottling. This was another example of a sneak preview, as the winery is just now offering this wine from the 2008 vintage. This wine was recommended to open two to three hours before serving and it was suggested that it can be cellared for fifty to sixty years. It was perfect paired with rabbit, which can be fussy to select the proper wine with. My next article will be about the balance of the meal and the star wines that were offered, with a special surprise pour.

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A Wine Tasting at Selden Standard

Posted on October 2, 2015 by thewineraconteur

My last article was about a return visit to Elie Wine Company in Birmingham, Michigan and Elie sponsored a wonderful dinner at Selden Standard in Midtown Detroit. The wines featured for the tasting were all from Domaine Jean Bourdy from the Jura district of France and featured Jean-Francis Bourdy as our guest host and speaker. It was a pleasure to go to Selden Standard, my Bride had already been there on business, but it was my first time there, and it is one of the “hot” new restaurants in Detroit. In the old days there was Mario’s and a couple of blocks away was the Snug which morphed into The Traffic Jam and Snug, and back then you kept the windows up and the doors locked, as there was really nothing else of interest, now the area is bustling with all types of restaurants and retail in the district.

Elie Wine Company Logo

This evening will be broken up into three parts, because I will be following the menu and the wines and there is so much to cover. I had never had the fortune of trying any of the wines from the Jura, in all of the years that I have been tasting wines. In fact in preparation for the dinner, I went to two of my “go-to” reference books ahead of time and there was very little written about the area, but the books are both from 1971, so I guess I need some newer “go-to” books. The Jura district is located between the Burgundy region and Switzerland and is known for some unique wines, varietals and their own wine bottle, the clavelin, a special squat bottle that is their signature.

MI Selden Standard BC

Caves Jean Bourdy is one of the oldest Domaines in the Jura, created in the late 1400’s and now run by brothers Jean-Phillipe and Jean-Francois, the fifteenth generation of winemakers for the estate. They own twenty-four acres, including one acre in Chateau-Chalon AOC (the name of the village). Caves Jean Bourdy make the wines in an old fashioned, time honored way, using old barrels, some up to eighty years old for fermentation and aging, and by using old barrels the barrels are inert and do not impart anything extra to the wine. The Domaine is known for their extensive library of wines, red wines dating back to 1926, white wines from 1911, and wines from Chateau-Chalon from 1865; and all totally enjoyable to drink. The main varietals grown by the Domaine are Poulsard, Pinot Noir, Trousseau, Chardonnay and Savignin. The next couple of articles will actually discuss the different wines that we tasted through the course of the meal, and I do have to mention that this was considered my “birthday” dinner by my Bride and she is still so good to me.

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A Return Trip to Elie’s

Posted on September 30, 2015 by thewineraconteur

Have you ever been someplace that is so awesome that it is terrifying to go back to? Elie’s in Birmingham, Michigan is the finest wine shop I have ever been to. I wrote about the shop before, but I am like a kid in a candy store, it takes all of my will power not to go there, because I could spend the mortgage payment without even trying. The last time I was there, I was almost redlining on my phone, so I could not take any photos and I think everyone deserves to see what is there. The shop is like a Siren to me, and it is probably a good thing that I am busy almost every Saturday, that he posts emails about a wine tasting that he is offering. My Bride and I are planning on retiring in the near future and if I became a regular at this shop, I may not ever be able to retire, though my cellar would be stellar.

Les Lauriers de Rothschild Rose 2014

Most shops as I have mentioned before carry a large selection of popular wines and some are even international in scope, but then the famous wines are tucked away in a small area, if they even carry any. At Elie, the entire shop is fine wines and basically only from France. From First Growth Medoc wines downward, the choices are amazing. Then his selections of Burgundy would make a strong man weak. He is in the midst of creating a special “room” just for Champagne and I am sure that when it is done, there will be Champagnes that I have only read about and never even seen for retail or listed by a restaurant. Elie is also branching out, as he is doing some importing of his own, as he has become quite enamored with some of the wines from Spain, that were not getting any presentation here in the United States, which he is attempting to change.

Elie Cases 1                                Elie Cases 2

I took a chance, feeling that my resolve was strong and I could only allow myself a quick trip there. I had received an email about a new rose wine that he was touting, and I thought that it would be something unique to try with my Brother-In-Law since he was in town for a party. The bottle of wine that I was after was Baron Edmond de Rothschild Les Lauriers de Rothschild Rose 2014. The wine was a Vin de France, the new version of the old Vin de Table, or what was called a Table Wine. The name change was because there are certain wines now being made, that are not table wines, but they do not agree with the time honored types of wine for the usual designation, similar to the concept that a Tuscan IGT is not the usual wine from Tuscany. The wine is from “Les Lauriers” which is adjacent to “Chateau Laurets” which was bought by the Baron in 2003 and is in Montagne-Saint-Emilion. When one thinks of French wine with the name Rothschild one immediately thinks of Pauillac and here we are on the other side of the river. As best as I can discover this wine is made from Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, all varietals that are perfect for Montagne-Saint-Emilion. The rub, I guess that it is a Vin de France, is because it is a Rose wine and not Claret. The wine was a hit, I might add, a very dry and subtle Rose that was perfect for a summer afternoon, before dinner. I know that the Siren call of Elie will still lure me back, and I look forward to it.

Elie Cases 3                              Elie Cases 4

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Some More Wines from Monterey

Posted on September 28, 2015 by thewineraconteur

One of the easiest ways to make this Wine Raconteur happy is when I receive another shipment from my wine club “A Taste of Monterey.” Since we pay for this wine club, I do not have to write that I am writing about the wines, any differently then every other wine that I have written about. I am not beholden to anyone or any firm, so I can proceed as usual and of course since we just received these wines, it may take some time, before I ever get around to having them, or to really write about them.

Cobblestone Arroyo Seco Chardonay 2010

The first wine that I unpacked was a Cobblestone Arroyo Seco Chardonnay 2010. Cobblestone is a small family owned winery, which is interested in making affordable, quality wines. The winery began inn 1971 and came up with the name from the small round cobblestone rocks found in their first vineyard. The Chardonnay grapes for this wine came from the first fifty acres in the Arroyo Seco AVA vineyard and the winery uses French Oak for aging, and the estimate aging potential for this wine is six to seven years.

Wrath Doctor's Syrah 2012

The second bottle that I unpacked is the Wrath Doctor’s Vineyards Syrah 2012. I have written about other Wrath wines that are either produced on their own property or from respected properties in the area. Doctor’s Vineyard comprises a large segment of the total acreage of the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, and as of to date, I have not had a bad bottle from this area. There is a suggested aging potential of seven to eight years for this wine, and I find that an aged Syrah is a true pleasure after it mellows out.

DeTierra Tondre Pinot Noir 2012

The last bottle of the shipment is DeTierra Tondre Grapefield Pinot Noir 2012. DeTierra is another family owned winery and they source their fruit from assorted vineyards in the Monterey County. The Tondre Grapefield was planted in 1997 and started with six and half acres, and over the years it has acquired seven blocks with a total of eighty acres in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA. There is an assortment of Pinot Noir clones planted in the Tondre Grapefield, which allows a certain nuance of flavors to emerge both from the fruit and the terroir and I have had the pleasure of enjoying plenty of Pinot Noir wines from the Santa Lucia Highlands and I highly recommend them. This particular wine produced one hundred and twenty-five cases and the aging potential is five to six years. Three more wines that I look forward to trying in the years to come.

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“Sharing the Rough”

Posted on September 26, 2015 by thewineraconteur

I live in the Detroit area, not exactly the cinematic center of the Universe, so when I had a chance to attend the premier of a movie, I jumped at the chance. “Sharing the Rough” is a documentary film that goes from the actual mining of colored gemstones in Africa, to the cutting and faceting of the gem, to the jewelry design for the gemstone. I am not a jeweler and have never been in that business, though I certainly enjoy the art and appreciate the finished products that are offered. I must admit that I know the writer/director/producer of the film, and I just marvel and perhaps envy as well, his desire and his ability to get films made. This is his third endeavor as a three-in-one artiste, and not everyone can actually live their dream as well as he has.

Domaine de Nizas Rose Languedoc 2014

While “Sharing the Rough” has played at assorted film festivals to acclaim and sold-out status, I did not attend any of the festivals, though I did get to savor some of the excitement second hand following my friend’s postings. I mean this is very heady stuff and it makes me all the more proud that I can say that I know him. The film had its premier in Northville, Michigan, because that it where he grew up and he wanted to share the film with his friends. The theater that was chosen was the historic Marquis Theatre in downtown Northville, and the building was originally built as an opera house, then onto vaudeville, cinema and live productions. Charlie Chaplin and Mary Pickford have performed on the stage there, where I got the chance to watch the film. In fact, for all of the years that I have been in the City of Northville, this was the first time that I had ever been in the building, and I just spent time looking at it, appreciating all of the work that went into saving and rehabilitating the theater. I had purchased two tickets, of course, and at the last minute, my Bride became ill, and after I made sure that she was alright, I went to the showing by myself, but there were plenty of people that I saw there, so I really did not feel alone. In fact, as I sat in one of the last rows, I was in the same row, as the very proud parents of the director, and they also enjoyed some cameo appearances in the film.

MI Sharing the Rough Poster

When I got to the theater, I got a chance to watch people getting photographed against a background of logos, just like in Hollywood, and if my Bride had attended, I would have done it as well. I had extra time before the film started, so I went across the street from the theater to a restaurant that I used to go to, but it had changed hands and décor as well. I did not have time to dine there, but one day I will, but I did have time to stop and have a chilled glass of wine in the interim. It was a beautiful summer evening and I saw a new rose wine to try. I had a glass of Domaine de Nizas Languedoc 2014. Like the young man whose film I was going to see, this wine was also a “triple” as it was a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre, the famous trio of grapes that is famous from the Rhone Valley, and in California, those that attempt making wines from this trio are called “Rhone Rangers.” Languedoc is part of the area that was known for years as Languedoc-Rousillon with the sub-region of Coteaux du Languedoc, as it was known from 1985 to 2012, and in 2007 it was changed to Languedoc. The wine was delightful, dry and crisp, and perfect for the evening. I was also invited to the After-glow party by the family and it was at Genitti’s Hole in the Wall, just a wonderful place to spend some good time with friends. There were chafing dishes of hot food, and platters of cheese and charcuterie for all of the guests to enjoy. Part of the charm of Genitti’s, is the ambience, the wine glasses are jelly jars or similar type containers in another life. There I had a glass of Liberty Creek Winery Chardonnay NV, a California wine, where not only are the grapes blended from all across the state, but the wine is blended from year to year, to maintain a certain taste. Liberty Creek wines are very popular with catering companies and restaurants that use a lot of popular price wine, without the fanfare. The evening was charming, even with out my Bride at my side, and all that I can add is that Francis and Marty better start looking over their shoulder for the next Italian “triple-threat.”

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Missouri Wine Month

Posted on September 24, 2015 by thewineraconteur

September is also the month for Missouri according to the Wine Lovers Calendar and it is the first state that I have never been to, or had the privilege of trying any wines from this state. So this is all research for me, in preparation of one day trying the wines.

MOWineMonth_eCard1

Wine was first planted in Missouri in 1837 and it enjoyed a steady growth until the Prohibition Era. After prohibition there was very little interest until the 1960’s and it is now the twelfth largest producer in the United States of America. In the year 2011 there were one hundred wineries in the state and now there are over one hundred and twenty wineries. Between regions and sub-regions there are now eight AVA districts, and Augusta was the first AVA in the country, and Napa was the second.

MissouriWinesLogo

While there is some experimentation with classic European varietals, the majority of the wines grown are of the Cold-Hardy varietals. The most popular white grapes grown are Cayuga, Chardonel, Seyval Blanc, Traminette, Vidal Blanc and Vignoles. The most popular red grapes grown are Catawba, Chambourcin, Concord, Norton/Cynthiana and St. Vincent. The Norton/Cynthiana varietal is actually the Missouri State Grape. It will only be a matter of time, before the “Show Me” state, shows me.

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Illinois Wine Month

Posted on September 22, 2015 by thewineraconteur

September is also Illinois Wine Month according to the Wine Lovers Calendar. I have to admit that I have been to Illinois plenty of times in my life, both for fun and for work, but I have never had a wine produced in Illinois. I am sure that part of it is because I was always in the Chicago area and they have some spectacular restaurants, and that back in the day, the concept of local produce and products was not as popular as it is today. Most of the restaurants that I frequented were proud of their cellars and the deep pockets that they used to procure wines that they thought would be complimentary to their cuisine.

IL Pumproom MB

I had to do some research on the State of Illinois regarding winemaking and wineries. At one time Illinois was considered the fourth leading area for wine production, but the Volstead Act or Prohibition, which devastated the wine industry across the country. Illinois has recently grown again with new wineries, since the latitude it shares coincides with Napa and Sonoma Valleys. The major difference is the extreme winters that Illinois can suffer through, so one finds many of the Cold Hardy varietals planted there like Chambourcin, Seyval Blanc, Marechal Foch and Vignoles; similar to what one finds in other Mid-West States. There are two AVA regions in Illinois, one being Shawnee Hills that has come quite prolific with wineries and was granted an AVA in 2006. The other AVA is massive and is the Mississippi Valley, but this AVA extends not only in Illinois, but into Iowa, Minnesota and Wisconsin as well.

IL Gene & Georgetti MB

While at the moment I am busted for not being able to have tasted or can discuss first-hand any wines of Illinois, I think of fondness for Illinois, because of all the wine that I have had during all of my trips to Chicago and the surrounding areas. Through the course of my writings I have mentioned many of the great restaurants that I have dined at, because they were on my list of places to try. I think of the legendary Pump Room that was in the Ambassador East and glad that I had the chance to dine there several times. Then there are the great steak houses that one automatically thinks of, when they think of Chicago, like Gene & Georgetti. Great Italian cuisine can also be found in Chicago, like the famed Coco Pazzo, but then there is hardly a nationality that one cannot find a restaurant for, as there is even an Armenian restaurant that I have dined at. So while I have not had Illinois wines, I have had a lot of wine in Illinois.

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California Wine Month

Posted on September 20, 2015 by thewineraconteur

It seems that since the Paris Judgment of 1976, instead of California Wine Month, it could be California Wine Year every year since. California has a varied style of topography for wine growing that can make any country envious, not to mention assorted climates and a variety of terroir that is acclaimed by many. Almost every type of varietal has been and still grown in California, so any style of wine can be found there. It has a long history of vineyards being planted from the 1800’s, suffered through the Prohibition and had a slow return of wine growing since then. I can think of the Inglenook winery that has a very long and historic run and the name has returned to prominence.

Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Cabernet Sauvignon 1970

When I first started discovering wines, most of California was originally thought of as the center of jug wines, those large gallon jugs of wine that used to proclaim California Red Wine or California White Wine, or they may have said Burgundy, not much to go on back then. To this day, one can buy California wines where the fruit could have been harvested from across the state, to getting wine from AVA districts, all the way to at least one winery that I had discovered that was its own AVA. One could write almost eternally on the different aspects of California wines and would never find a logical ending.

Almaden Burgundy

My Bride and I have had the good fortune to have visited some of the wine areas of California over the years, and have even visited many wineries. One year we were there during harvest and I had the good fortune to even taste some wine grapes, just before picking, and to this day the only way I can describe them, is to liken the ability to pluck sugar cubes off of the vines. Having made appointments at certain wineries did much to help me dispel my earlier memories of California wines and now I think that the majority of wines that we drink at home are from California. Some of my earliest “real” California wines that I tried personally from the early days, when I was self-educating myself, which I am still doing, were from wineries that are still known today like Inglenook, Sterling and Souverain. In fact, one of the earliest wines that I ever tried from California, prior to the great wine tasting was Beaulieu Vineyards Georges de Latour Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 1970 and it made me re-evaluate my thoughts about California back in my college days. So the words of the song are almost correct for me and about my early formative wine years “California, here I come, right back where I started from.”

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Grenache Day

Posted on September 18, 2015 by thewineraconteur

The Wine Lovers Calendar has listed October 18 as Grenache Day. Grenache is found around the world, but seems to thrive in Spain, France, Sardinia, the United States of America and Australia. It is known by many names such as Grenache Noir, Garnacha Tinta, Garnatxa, Lladoner, Tintos Aragones, Cannonau, Alicante, Granaccia and Tocai Rosso. It can be found as a red wine or as rose, it can be dry or sweet and in between. Grenache is considered to be originally found in Spain and is famed for its use in Rioja, Priorat and Aragon. I think back to my early days when I was discovering wines, and wines from Rioja were one of “my” first discoveries, and always a go-to wine when I get a chance. Priorat is one of the hot areas these days, for those that have to be of the moment. I have only started trying some wines of this area in the last couple of years, and last year I discovered a Grenache rose from Aragon, my first wine from there.

Chateauneuf Du Pape Moreau

Grenache is also famed in France, both in Languedoc-Rousillon and in the Rhone. The Rhone trio of varietals that are now blended around the world by different wineries are Grenache, Mouvedre and Syrah. The Cote du Rhone wines were also one of the first wines that I discovered back in the old days and they still are. I also can’t tell you how many people over the years I have touted on the benefits of Grenache bases wines. Not only are the basic wines of the Rhone using Grenache, but so are some of the most famous wines from Chateauneuf-du-Pape, even though by law there can be up to fifteen varietals used in the blend.

Las Rocas de San Alejandro Rose 2012

Any reason to have a glass or bottle of a Grenache wine is fine, and now that I know that it is celebrated, it is another reason to enjoy.

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North Carolina

Posted on September 16, 2015 by thewineraconteur

North Carolina Wine Month is celebrated in September, according to the Wine Lovers Calendar. One of the joys of writing The Wine Raconteur beyond the actual drinking is to learn more about wines, which is fun. At this point in my life, fun is good.

North Carolina September

Alas, I have never had the chance to try an actual wine from North Carolina or have visited any of the over one hundred wineries in the state. It is one of the oldest wine growing regions in America, which I did not know and that at one time it was the leading producer of wines in the country, that is until Prohibition, which put the halt to almost all wine production. The most popular varietals that are grown in North Carolina are Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah and Viognier. North Carolina is also home to wine that is native to America, and is considered one of the oldest cultivated grapes in the world, which is locally called Scuppernongs and is related genetically to the Muscadine grape, and it has been grown in North Carolina for about four hundred years of record. North Carolina is also home to four established wine districts; Yadkin Valley, Swan Creek, Haw River Valley and Upper Hiawassee Highlands.  The two illustrations that I am using are from sites that I found on the internet.

all_NC_wineries_map_use

While admitting that I have never had a wine from North Carolina, my Bride and I have had the good fortune to have visited a dear friend in the state and have discovered some great restaurants and have gone to some wine tastings while there, but that is for another day or two and another story or two.

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