La Bistecca – Plymouth, MI – Ornellaia

Posted on September 22, 2012 by thewineraconteur

Way off the beaten track in Plymouth, Michigan right on the border of Livonia is La Bistecca (Italian for The Steak).  It really is off the map, because as they say “you can’t get there from here.”  It is a very elegant restaurant, basically one big dining room with a small piano and cigar bar in the back. Just like in the good old days, one could even enjoy a cigar there, which seems like another era and another lifestyle and age.  Even the background music evokes another time with the likes of Sinatra, Martin and Bennett.

 

The restaurant specializes in Piedmonts beef, which is considered “heart smart” with it being a leaner beef still with the marbling and taste one would expect from a fine steak house. The meat is even endorsed by the American Heart Association.

 

 

They have excellent hot and cold appetizers, seafood, chicken, pasta and of course the beef that is their name.   We have been there many times with different friends and always enjoyed a fine dinner.  One night, I had eaten steaks a couple times that week, and I felt like something different and I ordered their “free-range” chicken dinner.  I took one bite, marveled at the taste and I had to pass the plate around for everyone else to taste, it was that good.  When the plate got back to me, I had to ask the waiter if they could rush me another chicken as it must have flown away, actually everybody couldn’t get over how wonderful this simple plate was.

 

The wine list is extensive and not only devoted to Italy, but also Australia, Spain, South America and Michigan.  Some of the wines are even offered in multiple vintages.  They also have a reserve wine list for that special occasion.  This extensive wine list has brought them a Wine Spectator award of Excellence.   One night we enjoyed one of the famed Super Tuscan wines Ornellaia 2001.  This was a magnificent wine, to describe it simply it is an Italian Bordeaux wine.  It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc that is almost aged for three years before bottling.  It is truly a wine crafter’s artistry that shines in the glass.  You can appreciate the fruit, the tannins are balanced and have almost silkiness, and it is that smooth.  Even the aftertaste continues to charm you.  Try this wine, if you ever get a chance.

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1913 At the Plaza – Grand Rapids

Posted on September 21, 2012 by thewineraconteur

Here is another in my many reminiscences of traveling as a spouse with my Bride on a business trip to Grand Rapids.  There was a conference and we were staying at the Am-Way Grand Hotel in downtown Grand Rapids, Michigan.  My Bride always insists on staying in the old part of the hotel as she feels that there are more ambiences, while the new section just feels like most other hotels.

 

While she was at work, I got to wander around the downtown area and visit some of the sites of the city.  It was a very nice afternoon to just wander and look around.  There is an interesting building that people were telling me about, but I did not get a chance to go there called B.O.B, which stands for Big Old Building that I guess has been retrofitted with a cluster of places of interest for people that have attained the age of majority.  I did take a walk and a short tour of the Gerald Ford Museum and Library on the other side of the river.

 

We had dinner that night, at the 1913 Room at the hotel.  The choices for dinner and the wines were pre-selected, which is fine for a group session.  There was shrimp for an appetizer, a salad and a filet mignon for dinner.  It was an excellent meal, with no complaints from my Bride or from me.  There was a choice of three wines that evening; a Chardonnay, a Merlot and a Cabernet Sauvignon.   I chose the Cabernet Sauvignon which was a Beringer Knights Valley 1991 and found it very appealing.  It paired very with will the filet mignon, much better then I thought a Merlot wine would.  Also I remember that I looked at the Merlot and I did not know the winery and when I saw that this wine had the Knights Valley designation, which sealed my choice.  When you are given a limited selection, make a fast study of the options and don’t look back, just like when you were taking exams in school.

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A Cruise on the Detroit River

Posted on September 20, 2012 by thewineraconteur

On many of the business meetings that my Bride attends, I get the bonus of going with her.  It is a great perk, a chance to meet different people and have new experiences.  One night we went on a cruise on the Detroit River on one of the two yachts from Infinity Yacht Charters.  The yacht that we were on was designed for corporate or large party affairs.

 

We boarded the yacht, when it was moored on the east side of Detroit and prepared to have a good time.  We had a lazy slow cruise up and down the river looking at both landscapes of Windsor, Ontario and Detroit, Michigan.   We went under the Ambassador Bridge and went passed the historic Fort Wayne in Delray/Detroit.  This fort was originally built to protect the border from the onslaught of marauding Canadians and British troops just after our country was founded.  It was a good night, because there were no attacks that evening.

 

 

We also enjoyed a little dinner show, some Irish dancers, a la Lord of the Dance, which was at its peak of popularity at the time.  The dancers were very animated and enthusiastic even braving their art on a “stage” that rolled a bit from the movement of the river.

 

The food that evening was mostly appetizers or finger food that was set up in different sections of the yacht.  Naturally everyone had their favorites and some areas were a little harder to maneuver and enjoy then others, but it was all good and tasty.  The bar was more focused on mixed drinks and beer, and the organizers chose a well branded bar for the attendees.  The wine selection was a standard mix and I find that it is always best to go safe at soirees of this nature.   We enjoyed drinking Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay, which worked out well with most of the small plates of food.  This Chardonnay was buttery or creamy as some prefer to call it and it went well, except with the few red meat offerings, but since it was not a sit down dinner, one goes with the flow.  All in all, a safe wine pick is the best, and makes an enjoyable time ever better.

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Little Italy – Northville – Brunello di Motalcino

Posted on September 19, 2012 by thewineraconteur

I remember the first time we went to Little Italy; it was off of the downtown in an old home that was retrofitted for a restaurant.  All of the rooms on the main floor were configured for maximum seating for some fine Italian cooking.   There was even a little cozy table for two fitted into a closet (?) under the staircase.  This was fine dining in a very casual atmosphere and hence the noise level was high, but it lent to the charm of the room.  Everyone was there for the food, as well as for a good time.

 

I also remember when they expanded in the back and made a bar and a more casual dining area and started making great pizzas.  When ever we were in the restaurant, I would have to talk a walk into the back area, just to see some friends that I may have missed being in the dining room.

 

 

John Gallagher was the chef and co-owner, a wonderful gregarious man who embody the image of a chef, even if he wasn’t Italian.  He had a sparkle in his eye and always a kind word to say to all of the patrons.  One day he took me down in the basement to show me the wine cellar for the restaurant.  The cellar was not for the public and it was a very pedestrian room, but designed for maximum efficiency.  After they added the bar area, they also opened up a little Italian market for food, wine and pick-up orders of food.

 

One of the many bottles of Italian wine that we enjoyed was a bottle from the Brunello di Motalcino region which is just south of the Firenze (Florence) district of Chianti.  This bottle that we enjoyed was Pian delle Vigne 1998 and it was just as robust and chewy as any of the top producers of a Chianti Classico Riserva.   A deep colored Italian wine with a classic nose with some fruit as it was still young with a strong tannin presence, which said “I should still be aging.”  This wine was ideal pairing with the great sauces on the dishes we enjoyed that evening.

 

 

Alas, the restaurant eventually changed hands, and then there was a fire in the kitchen.  The structure remained as there was talk of rebuilding and I am sad to say it has been razed and is just a flat parcel of land today.

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No VI Chophouse –Novi and Le Clos

Posted on September 18, 2012 by thewineraconteur

No VI Chophouse and the City of Novi both derived their name from the same signpost.  Legend has it, that is was the sixth stop on the wagon run from Detroit to Lansing, hence if you use part English and part Roman Numerals you have No. (Number) VI (six) which became Novi through shorthand, one would surmise.

The Hotel Baronette was built on the outer ring of a shopping center in Novi and wished to have an upscale restaurant.  The No VI Chophouse obliged and did a wonderful job both as a chop house and a lobster house.   The hotel and the restaurant catered to the business man who demanded the best and that is what they delivered.  We were having dinner there one night with relatives that were staying at the hotel.

We had a wonderful dinner that only a chop house type eatery could offer, and I do think an independent restaurant has to strive harder as they cannot rely on their national laurels.  We had shrimp cocktails, a big salad and a filet mignon, which is my favorite cut of meat, because to me there is no waste and no bone to fuss with, and when it is aged properly, it is like butter to the knife.

We had a wine that evening, which I guess is no longer being offered by the winery, when I went to look up some background information on it.  The wine is by Clos Duval of Napa Valley and is labeled as “Le Clos.”  It also says on the label “red wine” so I am presuming it was a Meritage type of wine, the vintage year must have been on a separate label, that I do not have, and I did not record it on the back of the label.  I must have had a period of mental lapses as I seem to be missing some data, and some of memories are a bit fuzzy.  I know that we enjoyed the wine and the dinner, because wine labels that were not impressive went into a separate box for keepsakes.  I prefer not to mention wines that were not great, as I do like to keep this journal positive.

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The Caucus Club

Posted on September 17, 2012 by thewineraconteur

Across the street from the venerable London Chop House, which I have already discussed in a prior memory was the Caucus Club.  It was the sister business to the London Chop House and with the same owners.  It was originally opened to handle the overflow of business from the London Chop House and in the early days even though it was not a private club, it was a men’s only dining establishment.  The restaurant is still in business, women have broken the barrier and it has hung on for all of these years.  The restaurant has the feel of a man’s club with antiques and a unique collection of Toby mugs.  One of their claims to fame is that in the early sixties that had a singer who entertained the diners, who went on to acclaim winning all the major awards of entertainment, her name is Barbra Streisand.  I am sorry to say, that I did not see her perform there.  I was at the establishment a good decade after her Detroit debut.

    

 

There are two dining areas in the Caucus Club and I ate near the famous bar.  Legend has it that two distinct cocktails were born at the Caucus Club, the Bull Shot and the Tom & Jerry.  I was there with some friends and I enjoyed the “Pancho Burger” as well as a bottle of Napa Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon.  The evening was lively with a group of guys, so there really are no notes on the wine or the dinner, other then to say a grand time was had by all.   My Bride has been there as well (prior to our meeting) and she swears by the sautéed perch, as do many of the people that I have talked to.  I guess I do owe it to myself to try the Caucus Club again, in my maturity and to actually make notes, perhaps another article.

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The Hunt and Grunt Club

Posted on September 16, 2012 by thewineraconteur

The first time I went to the Huron River Hunting and Fishing Club, affectionately known as the “Hunt and Grunt” club I was in college.  I had a buddy that I chummed around with, and I eventually grew to learn that he came from a rather affluent family.  We would play golf at two days a week to use up his father’s required tab at both clubs.  We would have breakfast, eight holes of golf, lunch, another eight holes of golf, dinner and party through out the night.  We did this one day at Orchard Lake Country Club and the other day at Oakland Hills Country Club.  One night he said that we had to go for dinner at another club for the same reason and said we are going to the Hunt and Grunt Club.  Who was I to argue, a dinner is a dinner, especially when you are a college student and always was hungry.

 

When we got there, he told me to follow his lead, and so I did.  The waiter asked if we were hungry and my friend said we could eat an elephant, and I agreed.  After an appetizer and salad, out came our entrée.  We were each served a thirty-six ounce porterhouse steak cooked to perfection.  I had never seen a steak that size, somehow we both managed to make it disappear while we were talking and having a grand old time.

 

 

Many years later, some friends of ours that belonged to a country club, invited us out for dinner.  I thought that we were going to the country club, but they said that they had reciprocity through their club at the Huron River Club and since there was an affair at their club that they were not attending, we were going to this new venue.  I wasn’t even aware that I had been there, because they had used the proper name for the club.  When I got there, I had to laugh as I related the prior story to my Bride and the couple that were our hosts.   Needless to say, I did not order the same entrée that I had enjoyed years ago, as it would have been the death of me if I had.  We did enjoy a wonderful filet dinner.

 

We also had a couple of bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon wine that evening.  We enjoyed Franciscan Oakville Estate from Napa Valley in California.   I am sorry that I do not remember this wine as I have some other wines, but I know that we must have enjoyed it, as we did go through two bottles of it.  Sometimes even an old raconteur has lapses of memory.

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The Rowe Inn – Ellsworth, MI – and a Cab

Posted on September 15, 2012 by thewineraconteur

Like most people from the Detroit area (as well as a good group from Chicago) we make periodic trips to the Traverse City area of the Lower Peninsula.  Some go there every year in the fall for the color of the change of season.  We prefer to go, to check out the wineries and the numbers of them have increased immensely and we also go for the food.

 

One of the hidden treasures, and I do mean hidden is in the town or village of Ellsworth called The Rowe Inn.  It is a restaurant that offers seasonal changes in the menu, and strives to have that European feel of a French country inn.  They have earned many accolades including the DiRona and the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence.  The dining experience begins with great appetizers from pates to seafood, a choice of fresh salads and entrees that encompass choices for everyone.  Duck, (for me), steaks, chicken, pork, and fish all prepared perfectly to make the trip there worth it.

 

We had a bottle of Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon from the Jack London vineyard in Sonoma Valley in California.  This was a big Cabernet heavy in tannins, deep color and great legs, with a full after taste that kept you wanting another taste.  The restaurant has a nice selection of wines and they now offer the wines at a retail price as well as a restaurant (dining in price).

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Joe Muer –the Original – Detroit – and a Chardonnay

Posted on September 14, 2012 by thewineraconteur

Joe Muer was a landmark in downtown Detroit; it was where one went to get seafood.  I have known people that ate there for years and always enjoyed the same dish for years, never wavering, because they felt it was perfection.  When downtown Detroit was bustling, businessmen used to go straight to Joe Muer for dinner and wait for the rush hour traffic to abate before driving home, and why not, it was a delightful place to be.

 

It had that old time school approach to dinner, and sometimes you just wanted to make a meal of the plates that were brought out, while you were looking at the menu and the wine list and just enjoying your first cocktail of the evening.   There was the white bean relish, the smoked fish spread and the matzo crackers to nibble on.   A simple little thing, that has seemed to be gone from modern restaurants, it was so much more satisfying then the amuse that some of the Nouveau Cuisine eateries now offer.  The Dover Sole and the White Fish were the dinners I remember most, and the ones that my Bride always would waver between the two.

 

I picked a wine to symbolize the wines that we enjoyed.  A Silverado Vineyards Chardonnay from Napa Valley is the wine that I will feature here.   I mean when you think of seafood, white wine is a natural choice, and I do enjoy a good bottle of Chardonnay.   This wine is perfect to pair with fish as it has a buttery finish to the taste and does not overpower the subtleties of white fish or sole.  It also did not fight with the classic creamed spinach that you had to enjoy while you there as well.

 

Alas, Joe Muer finally closed the doors in Detroit and a few years returned in a new format and setting in the suburb of Southfield with the name of Joe’s Bar & Grill.   We went to it for the nostalgia, but it did not feel the same, and it eventually closed as well.   There is a new Joe Muer that opened under the auspice of the Andiamo group of restaurants in downtown Detroit in the Renaissance Center, but so far we have not tried it.  We will, and then I will record a new wine and my thoughts on the new venue.

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Christopher Plummer, Barrymore and a Barolo

Posted on September 13, 2012 by thewineraconteur

One of Canada’s National Treasures is Christopher Plummer, who most people only know as Captain Von Trapp from the Sound of Music.  He did a one man play called “Barrymore” originally at Stratford and then followed it up at the Music Hall in Detroit.  The conceit of the play is that it is the last months of John Barrymore as he would recall his past milestones of his career.  The young people in the audience could barely associate that John Barrymore was the Great-Uncle of Drew Barrymore, but they would never know each other.  We could not make it to see it in Canada, so when it came to Detroit, it was a guaranteed show to see.   From the first moment when he walks onto the stage with a rolling bar reciting a very ribald limerick he had the audience in the palm of his hand.  He went from the risqué to brilliant orations of Shakespeare and back, with perfect diction and a great command of the English language that seems to be lost in today’s theater.  I thank God that Mr. Plummer is such a fine theatrical actor, that he would pause enough for the laughter of the audience to diminish before delivering another great line.  It was one of the fastest shows that I have ever seen, because we were laughing so hard.

 

Prior to seeing the play at the Music Hall we decided to have dinner at Intermezzo, which was a new restaurant in the Harmony Park area of downtown Detroit.  It was a lively restaurant, that was hot, but the flame flickered out too quickly and it is now part of the annals of former restaurants in Detroit.   They served all classic Italian dishes as well as some Nouveau Cuisine dishes as well.   We both had veal dishes after a calamari appetizer.

 

We also had a wonderful Pio Cesare Barolo wine from Italy.   It was a classic interpretation of a Barolo wine with an amazing nose.  A deep color and a taste that had a wow factor with subtle fruit and tannins that really should have been allowed to age for another ten years.  Yes, we drank it too young, but that is the way of the world in restaurants.  The wine overpowered the calamari and the veal, but it was a great wine, and a great segue to all the alcoholic asides that we would see after dinner courtesy of Mr. Plummer.

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