Banda Azul

Rioja wines were one of the first wines that I was touted towards when I first started learning about wines, if I wasn’t going to have a Medoc. I mention this because, I had just read an article by Thomas Matthews in an article about Spanish wines in the Wine Spectator magazine. I remember that I became an early fan about Rioja wines.

Mr. Matthews wrote “In 1978, I was an aspiring novelist living in Grenada, in Andalucía…I often chose a red wine from Rioja that was sold in every corner store: Paternina Banda Azul…Back then, Riojas rarely displayed vintages. Instead they were labeled ‘3rd Ano’ or ‘5th Ano’ to indicate how long they had been aged before release.” This made me go and look up my early notes from my well dog-eared and falling apart book “The Signet Book of Wine” by Alexis Bespaloff (1971). Mr. Bespaloff wrote “Vintages in Rioja do not have the same significance as in some other countries. Rioja is often a blend of several years, and a date on the label – sometimes preceded by the word Cosecha, or vintage – might only be meant to indicate the wine’s relative standing among the grades marketed by that shipper. If a shipper has had success with the wine of a particular vintage, he may maintain that year on subsequent labels, using it as an indication of quality rather than as an accurate guide to age. Thus it is not impossible to find a young white wine the unlikely legend Reserva 1930.” Add to this another caveat by Hugh Johnson in his “The World Atlas of Wine” (1971); “Vintage years are treated lightly. If a vintage is stated it is a good one, even if there is no guarantee that all of the wine in the bottle was made that year. Among white wines look for the youngest, among red wines look for one ten years old or even more.”

Reserva 904 La Rioja Alta 1959

While all of this information sounded quirky, it did not keep me from buying and tasting Rioja wines in my youth, especially because they were so affordable, even in a restaurant setting. That is why the second wine that I have in my scrapbook of wine labels is La Rioja Alta, S.A. Reserva 904 vintage 1959. Which leads me to Federico Paternina Banda Azul Ollauri vintage 1970, the first Rioja wine that I tried. Ollauri is a small town where the wine vaults for aging are held for the firm Federico Paternina. The Banda Azul was their labeled wine indicating that the wine was aged twelve months in Oak and then twelve months in bottle, before its release. Nowadays this wine would state “crianza” on the label, but that official designation was years later. This wine is the classic Rioja wine blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha (Grenache), Mazuela (Carignan) and Graciano. So you can see that some people refrained from Rioja wines, because of the writings of the day and it would make one scratch their head wondering what they were getting. I guess that I was rash and perhaps curious, so it never stopped me from trying the wines, and I still look forward to the next bottle of Rioja.

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It Had to Happen

I have to admit, that I enjoy wine so much that I started to write about it.  I often remind you that I am not an authority or even profess to being one.  The school I went to for wines, was the school of hard knocks.  Everything that I have learned about wine is from my own self-studies.  I am not rich and every wine or meal that I have ever had for the most part is by sacrificing something else for that occasion.  In my “About” page I have a terse statement of what my goals for The Wine Raconteur are: “A non-technical wine site, where I get to talk about my memories, and the smiles that the wine makers skills have given to me.  I just wish I had more of some of the wines to share with you, and to taste again.  Though some are etched in the back of my brain, with the brazen defiance that I will never surpass that one perfect bottle, but I keep trying.”

Richebourg

I am getting close to my one-thousandth article, which to me, is a bit of an achievement.  I have written about my early days of my youth, right about to the present, and I have written about all points of time in between, when something jogs my memory.  Thank God that I have been a pack rat most of my life, as opposed to a member of the Rat Pack; and that is why I am able to post most of the time, not only a wine label, but usually a curio from the moment as well, like a matchbook.

barefoot-white-zinfandel-nv

This article or something like it, should have been saved for my thousandth article, but I will write something more upbeat for that time.  I recently had the first negative response to my writings, which I did not allow to be published, but the words of the writer bothered me.  I had to sit back and think about it for a while.  I received these words “While you may know a thing or two about wine, your blog is nothing more than a weekly story about yourself.  Really stop!”

Chateau Latour Pauillac 1961

I had to ponder this statement.  The more I thought about it, the more I thought about what I was doing, and blogs are personal journeys.  While I follow many wine blogs and I always try to be encouraging, the ones that I enjoy most are the personal accounts, not just reviews on a wine, though I appreciate reading those as well to, I don’t feel that I am such an authority to make fiats about wine.  I relish reading about my fellow bloggers that go to conferences, elaborate wine tastings and even the wine junkets that some of them have the honor of going to; as I live vicariously through their words and images.  I am amazed at the wonderful articles about the wines that they receive from wineries and agencies for their appraisals.  Perhaps I am doing something wrong, as my memories all came from the wallet.

The French Laundry Entrance

 

I have decided though that I will continue writing the only way I know how and that is with the “conceit” that I am having a tete-a-tete with some one sitting at a table as we both enjoy a glass or two of wine.  As I look back over all of my writings I have written on wines as diverse Charles Shaw’s “Three Buck Chuck” and Barefoot to the wines of the DRC and some of the first growths of the Medoc.  I have been blessed to have tried so many different wines.  I have also written about home cooked meals, carry-outs and even left-overs that have been paired with wines to elaborate dinner parties.  I have written about small local eateries to some of the finest restaurants in the country.  I would not be willing to give up any of these memories, and there are many more to be recounted.  After all that is what a raconteur does, in spite of criticisms.  I am that old uncle at the dinner table that can keep the table entertained with stories, some that have been edited to make them suitable for all ages.

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Some Future Tastings

It looks like I will not run out of wines to discuss, but three more have just entered into potential articles. I just opened up my latest shipment from my wine club “A Taste of Monterey.” I can’t even tell you for sure how long we have been receiving wine from this club, but it has been a very long time. We discovered the shop on our first trip to the city of Monterey, as we were going to have dinner at the famed restaurant The Sardine Factory. We spent the day in Monterey, tasting some wines and buying even more wines, had a stellar meal and we even bought a work of art. Let it suffice to say that on that first trip for holidays at Carmel-by-the-Sea we probably spent more money than we had allotted for, but some times that happens.

joullian-roger-rose-chardonnay-2014

The first wine that I pulled out of the shipping carton was a new winery for me. The Joullian Roger Rose Chardonnay 2014 from Joullian Vineyards Ltd. and the fruit came from the Roger Rose Vineyard in the Arroyo Secco AVA. The fruit is actually from Dijon Chardonnay clones and since the vines are twenty to forty years old they survived the drought year of 2014. They have strove to maintain the concept of a Burgundy Chardonnay by using French Oak that has been cured for three years to minimize the oakiness that could occur. There were one-hundred-twenty-five cases made of this wine and the aging potential is six to seven years.

scheid-cabernet-sauvignon-2012

The second bottle that I unpacked was from Scheid Vineyards of Greenfield, California. I have received one other bottle from this winery their Scheid Hames Valley Vineyard Petite Sirah 2009. The wine that I just received is Scheid Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 and it is listed as being Estate Grown from their San Lucas and Hames Valley Vineyards. The wine was barrel aged for twenty month and was bottled unfiltered to preserve the tannin structure. This wine produced six-hundred-fourteen cases and the aging potential is eight to ten years, though it may have the potential to cellar even longer, in my humble opinion.

pessagno-four-boys-pinot-noir-2013

The last bottle to come out of the carton was Pessagno Pinot Noir Four Boys Vineyard 2013, and I have had their Pessagno Chardonnay Sleepy Hollow Vineyard 2010. The new wine comes from the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA and I cannot say enough about the Pinot Noir wines that I have enjoyed from this area. This wine was made from lightly crushed berries with about forty percent of the berries left whole for fermentation. They used both Burgundian yeast and native yeast cultures and they made this wine Sur Lees and stirred over an eleven month period. There were one-hundred-fifty cases made of this wine with an aging potential of five to six years. Even though I have mentioned the aging potential for all of these wines, I think that they may make an early appearance on our table for Thanksgiving, as I think that they will be perfect for that dinner.

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“Singing”

Here I was another lost soul having dinner. Not that dinner out is such a strange occurrence, but that I was to be found in an Asian style eatery. We were dining at the chain P.F. Chang’s. I go out of my way dining in most establishments, because of my concern for MSG (Mono-Sodium-Glutamate) which is a flavor enhancer that does havoc with my internal organs and system. To be honest, it is not just Asian restaurants, since the majority of catering halls seem to use it as well, consequently I usually eat before going to most weddings and similar functions, which does drive my Bride crazy, but she has gotten used to it.

laurenz-v-und-sophie-singing-gruner-veltliner-2013

P.F. Chang’s does not use this flavor enhancer, but I still tread lightly especially with foods that are out of my comfort zone. I feel safer since I have found out that the P.F. is for Paul Fleming of Fleming’s Steak House fame. My Bride was excited for the fact that she was going to eat there, as she normally goes there with some of her girlfriends. She also likes the fact that she is very adept at using chopsticks, and I am a heathen because I use a knife and fork. It was kind of amusing that she was guiding me through the menu, because she knows basically what I like and I don’t like and she was using mental algorithms to assist me. She decided that she was going to have the Hong Kong style Sea Bass with Asian mushrooms, asparagus in a ginger-coriander broth and she wanted brown rice. For me she suggested the Salt & Pepper Prawns with Chili peppers and chopped black beans, and they brought me a bowl of white rice, which I had no idea why, since the dish was dry. While I debated whether they were small prawns or kind of large shrimp, both dishes were very good. In fact I liked her Sea Bass, and we will probably go there again, because we have some gift cards to use up.

MI PF Chang's MB

I guess now that I know that Paul Fleming is behind this restaurant, it explains the decent wine selection. My first inclination would be to select a bottle of Gewurztraminer, because there is a natural spice to the fruit that compliments the few dishes that I have had over the years. As I was reading the list of wines offered, I knew that I was going to go for a white wine, and then I saw something interesting that I did not expect. We were going to have a bottle of Laurenz V und Sophie “Singing” Gruner Veltliner 2013. This wine is from Kremstal, Austria and Kremstal is known basically for two grape varietals: Riesling, but they are famed for their Gruner Veltliner. This wine is made by a Father and Daughter venture, but the V in their name pays homage to the fact that they are the Fifth Generation of winemakers on their land. This wine is only fermented for a couple of months in Stainless Steel before bottling, which allows the fruit to shine in the finished product. They call it “Singing” because they claim that is what you will do after enjoying the wine, and while I did not do my repertoire of Cole Porter or Meredith Wilson, it was a good wine, and I understand that it is one of the major wines exported from Kremstal. So the next we go, I may get a bid more adventurous.

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Welcome to Napa Valley

I get so many periodicals for my assorted hobbies that sometimes I get behind in my reading, among many other things. The Wine Spectator magazine back in July had a major story about Robert Mondavi and his impact on the wine industry. There were plenty of accolades and side bars about the man and his empire and I found it all so interesting.

welcome-to-napa-valley

Some times my brain works in unique way. As I was reading all the fascinating items in the man’s life, there was a photograph, albeit an older one, and one that looks different from the one I saw, and I should have stopped and posed. I am talking about that iconic sign post as one enters Napa Valley. The photograph in the magazine showed nine companies on the sign, and the sign has been changed over the years, and those nine companies are not listed anymore.

inglenook-limited-bottling-cabernet-sauvingnon-1970

What struck me the most, was that when I first started learning about wine and it was before the tidal wave of Napa Valley erupted in 1976, that California was not thought of if the same manner that it is today. I think back then, one became a wine snob, whether they wanted to or not, because wine was only thought of as a European product. I went back into my scrapbook of wine labels that I started when I was in high school and have more or less tried to maintain it over the years. I was surprised at what I discovered as I went looking to see how many of the big companies I had actually had before California was deemed cool. I will list each entry from the sign and my observations:

Beringer is still around and I have written about some of the wines that I have had from this company, but the earliest label that I could find was Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1991, which is from Sonoma County. The other earliest label and ironically was also not from Napa, but the vintage was not on it was Beringer Alluvium Knights Valley.

Louis M. Martini was another winery that I did not have the pleasure of trying until 2012 at a resort. The wine was Louis M. Martini Pinot Noir, vintage unknown, but it was from Napa Valley.

Inglenook is the winery of Napa lore, and it has had its ups and downs since its founding and the vinery and grounds have been reunited as Niebaum-Coppola in Rutherford. I found a label that must have been around 1970, as most of the other labels surrounding it are from that date. I have also had the Niebaum-Coppola Rubicon 2000 and back to its proper listing the Inglenook Cask Cabernet Sauvignon 2011. So I have gone full circle with this wine.

Freemark Abbey is one of the elder statesmen of Napa Valley, and I am sorry to say that I have never had any of their wines. The winery is now part of the Jackson Family of wines.

Beaulieu Vineyard is another winery that I actually had before 1976, and the first wine amazing as it sounds was their premier wine, I had BV Georges de Latour Private Reserve 1970. I could also find labels of this fine wine from 2004 and 2007 as well as their more popular priced selections as well.

Napa Cooperative Vineyard and Vin-Mont Wines, alas I could find no pertinent information on these companies, so I can only surmise that they either folded or were bought out and the products renamed. As for The Christian Brothers all I can remember was that they were more of a “jug” wine company and they also made California Brandy.

C. Mondavi & Sons, the last name on the sign is a winery that I must have missed for years. The first wine that I ever had was from the joint venture Opus One 1989 and to make up for it, I may have had about a dozen vintages since, what a vertical run that would have been, if I still had them. The first Woodbridge line of wines that he started in Lodi was Woodbridge Cabernet Sauvignon 1994. The first of the actual line was Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1996.

Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Cabernet Sauvignon 1970

As I was researching this article, the presumption that I must make, besides being a pseudo-wine snob from the era, was that I did not encounter that many of the wines while either shopping or dining out. I thought that some of the early labels would at least be interesting to look at.

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September Again

Some of you must be incredulous that birthdays are celebrated every month either here or at another home. With a large family, no month has been missed out on, so it is just easier to get together once a month, both for cooking and for scheduling. Some of the milestone years get special treatment, otherwise they are just all lumped together. Even though we are one of the farthest homes from everyone, it is easier as far as I am concerned to have everyone here, not that we have such a large home, but because my Bride does most of the cooking, of the main dishes, and otherwise it entails so much more schlepping of pots and pans and other sundry items, not to mention the additional time that she has to be cooking elsewhere.

kirkland-series-chablis-premier-cru-2014

She always starts out with an assortment of nibbles for those that graciously come at the suggested time, though the nibble time can be extended longer than she really likes, and I have gotten to the point to suggest that she start cooking a little later, so that the dishes don’t dry out in the oven. For this dinner she decided to make two main dishes. She made three pork tenderloins in a marinade of Balsamic, garlic and Olive Oil. She also made Bourbon Salmon and she tries to get the largest filet that she can find. She made her famous Caesar Salad and I just topped it off with the salmon, and I wasn’t paying attention if others did it that way or not. As a nod to me she makes Armenian Pilaf, and actually her family has gotten used to it, as being a staple starch side dish. There were other sides that were brought over as well. Then when all of those dishes were cleared, then the obligatory Birthday cake with all of the names decorated on it, along with plenty of other desserts were set out for everyone to enjoy.

Kirkland Sonoma County Chardonnay 2014

The strange thing that occurred was that I ended up shopping with my Bride for some stuff at Costco. I can’t tell you how long we have had membership there, but we have been married over twenty years and together for even longer; and I have never had my membership card finalized with my picture on the back; usually I just tag along with her. She wanted to get some more of her”house” Chardonnay that we always have chilling in the refrigerator, as her go-to wine. Luckily I can scan read quickly, otherwise there wouldn’t be much of a story to relate.

barefoot-white-zinfandel-nv

There was really no family into wines that were coming that day, so the cellar was safe from being raided at the moment. Some of her Sisters feel that the wines we serve are too dry, so someone brought a bottle of Barefoot White Zinfandel NV. I think that I could possibly retire if I received a quarter for every bottle of this popular priced wine that is sold, but this winery has served their niche market admirably. The main thrust of this article is I pitted two Costco white wines head to head. My Bride just enjoys her Kirkland Signature Sonoma County Chardonnay 2014 and to be truthful it is an easy drinking wine. This wine has been written up by me at numerous gatherings before so there really is not more for me to add to the story. The other wine that I spotted and grabbed a few bottles of sounded interesting; it was the Kirkland Signature Series Chablis Premier Cru 2014. They must have bought the entire production of the two climats in the region to fulfill the requirements that Costco would demand. It would take quite a dissertation to explain all of the quirks of esteemed acreage in the Burgundy region of France. Suffice it to say that there are seven official Grand Cru districts of Chablis and one unofficial district, and then there are forty Premier Crus with a total of eighty-nine vineyards that can carry this designation. The two climats that this wine is blended from are Montmains and Les Beuregard, and they are two of the seventeen largest climats of Chablis Premier Cru. Climat is a named plot of wine producing land in Burgundy. This wine spent twelve months in Stainless Steel and show the common mineral taste that one finds in the white wines of this region. While I enjoyed this wine, my Bride will continue her basic “house” wine and I shall bring it out again, when there are more wine drinkers at another time.

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Some Wines I Took

I was so impressed with the party celebrating The Wine Raconteur Jr. turning forty, that I felt that one article would not do the evening justice. While the ambience of the theme was working, their home was not filled with cigarette and cigar smoke that was so natural back in the Sixties. While we tried to recreate the era with our clothes, I even found my Allen Edmond Wing Tip Brogues to lend authenticity, though I went with navy blue, as I figured that if there would be any one color it would have been gray flannel, but not in August.

jat-jatt-at-twrjr

I went to my cellar to see if I could find something suitable for the party. Alas I only had one bottle left and while it would have been fitting for the occasion, it was not one that I wanted to enjoy in a big party. I have one bottle left of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1964, a legendary wine from Pauillac. I shall leave it resting for another event; it was even older than the Thunderbird parked in the driveway.

Ch Mouton Rothschild 1964

 

My Bride has been an avid Chardonnay drinker and she doesn’t seem to veer from it that often, so I went and got something for her that she would not normally have. I grabbed a bottle of Puma Road Reserve Chardonnay 2012 that we had received from our wine club A Taste of Monterey. One of the few times where the term Reserve actually means something, because this wine was all from a single vineyard Vigna Monte Nero Ranch in the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA and this designation is becoming more dear to me after each bottle that I have opened. The Franscioni family started making wine in 2003 under the RF Wines label, but now they have the present name. There were only one-hundred-twenty-two cases of this wine produced and the hand harvested fruit was aged for ten months in 40% French Oak and 60% neutrals. The aging potential for this wine was five to six years, but when I wrote about getting this wine back in June, I jokingly said that it probably wouldn’t last a year, and I was right, only three months; I guess that I am like a kid sometimes.

Puma Road Reserve Chardonnay 2012

 

The other wine that I brought was definitely keeping to the theme of the party, as it was Chianti, but not one of those wicker wrapped fiascha bottles, where the bottle cost more to produce than the wine. This was a wine that I first had at Il Tinello Ristorante in Midtown Manhattan and I went and bought some for myself after that great dinner, and by the way the restaurant is still going strong, black tie waiters and all. I opened the bottle of Gabbiano Chianti Classico DOCG 1993 and the cork was still firm and even gave me a big of a battle as I guess it didn’t want to be opened. Castello di Gabbiano has been making wine for around three hundred years and they have found documents showing that wine was a principal product on the grounds since at least 1464. This bottle of pure Sangiovese grapes from one of the famed delineated areas in Tuscany was unbelievable. It was not over the hill, but it was the most subtle and well rounded Chianti that I have ever had, in fact, in a blind tasting I would never have opined that it was Sangiovese, let alone Chianti. When I gave the guest of honor a glass of it, he could not place the wine, and was amazed that it was Chianti as well. I left him the balance of the bottle to enjoy at his leisure.

gabbiano-chianti-classico-1993

 

As great as the party was, I had to leave early, as my back was in agony and the wine-medicine was not helping, in fact the next day I did nothing at all. I have no idea what I did, but I must have done something. As we were making our good-byes to everyone, just like with my family, it takes at least an extra half hour or more, we were heading to the door. Our hosts mentioned that we had to take some thank you gifts from them for the guests, and it continued the theme of the party. The gift bags had a mini-bottle of liquor (one had vodka and one had gin), a box of bubble gum cigarettes (though I was told that unlike the old days, there was no powdered sugar between the wrapper and the gum, that one could pretend to blow smoke with) and a commemorative box of matches. They are just a classy couple and I am so glad that we were invited.

twrj-gifts

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Mad Men Party Wines

As more and more people came in to honor The Wine Raconteur Jr. on becoming forty, the rooms indoors were filling up quickly and I noticed that the tables under the tents in the back yard were also getting revelers. While they may not have all taken the suggestion about the Sixties dress code, they all wanted to offer their congratulatory salutations. The man has achieved much and he warranted the fuss, and what a to-do there was. I was really feeling for his Bride, as she just seemed to be pulling more and more appetizers out of thin air, it almost seemed for the cocktail party.

trapiche-oak-cask-malbec-2014

The on-site bartender was really working her magic as she created more and more cocktails, from the initial “Perfect Manhattan” for the Guest of Honor and then on and on for all of the guests. There were about six framed signs featuring the cocktails of the moment, and they were all getting quite a bit of play and requests. There lo and behold among the liquors, beer, syrups and garnishes were three wines for the party as well.

giesen-sauvignon-blanc-2015

The first wine that I noticed was keeping in the theme of the evening, to a degree. While Lambrusco wines are thought of from the Sixties, it was really at the tail end of the decade, but if you are of a certain age, one can always remember the great advertising campaign for Riunite Lambrusco. There front and center from Emilia-Romagna in Italy was Chiari Lambrusco Dolce Frizzante. This slightly effervescent and sweeter wine made from I am sure a mixture of the sixty some different identified Lambrusco varieties made people smile. This wine carried the Rosso Emilia IGP which covers most of the Lambrusco wines from the region, not to mention any of the newer varietals that are being experimented with by the growers as well.

chiari-lambrusco-dolce

The second wine that was being featured was from New Zealand, which in reality was not even thought of back in the Sixties as a country for wine. The countries that were thought of for wine back then was France, Italy, Germany, Spain and Portugal; and perhaps there might have been some daring souls that tried wines from the Finger Lakes of New York and some cowboys out west in California. The Giesen Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2013 was what one would expect from this region and on such a warm summer evening, it filled the bill most adequately for those drinking wine. Marlborough is the most important wine district in New Zealand and it is almost synonymous with Sauvignon Blanc.

twrj-drink-coaster

The last wine being served at the bar was from South America, an area that wasn’t even thought about during the Sixties, unless one could dance the Tango or some of the Latin dances that were popular in the night clubs, when night clubs were in vogue, or perchance you knew some one that went to the Carnival. The Trapiche Oak Cask Malbec 2014 is a robust wine from the Mendoza region of Argentina. Malbec is one of the grapes that has taken the area by storm and is recognized almost internationally as a wine to look for from the area. The term Oak Cask or Reserve are both used interchangeably by Trapiche to be their flagship wine collection, depending on the marketing department of the winery. This collection is aged for twelve months in both French and American Oak to round out the wine.

With all of the food and the assortment of beverages, this cocktail party would have been the party of the season even for the jaded members of Sterling, Cooper, Draper and Pryce. I also heard no complaints from the partiers, only compliments for a memorable evening.

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Forty?

The Wine Raconteur Jr. turned forty and it makes me think of a meme on saw recently that said “We aren’t getting older, just our kids are.” That statement is so true, I mean, I first met him when I was putting up flyers for a part-time employee at the nearby college and we met, interviewed and he was finally hired by the company. Through all the ensuing years, I have met his Parents, Brother, Aunts and Uncles and some of his cousins. I met his inamorata, that eventually became his Bride and we danced at his wedding. I have even watched his children grow. No where in all of these milestones did I even comprehend that he would turn forty; I mean my Bride and I have passed that marker years ago, but it gets harder to realized that the next generation is catching up to us.

Thunderbird

Just a few months ago, his Father, Brother and he surprisingly threw a surprise birthday party for his Mother that I wrote about. His charming Bride attempted to throw him a surprise birthday party, but I am not sure how the surprise part fizzled, but it was still a very laudable endeavor. The Wine Raconteur Jr. likes dressing, along with fine foods, wines, the arts, music and travel, and even though he picked out his own nom de plume when he guest wrote his first article for me, I think the sobriquet he chose was very apt. There was even a theme to this party, and it was based on a television/cable show called “Mad Men.” Now I haven’t watched television for almost as long as he has been on this Earth, but I had the gist of the show from reading, and it was based in the 1960’s, if you are not aware of the program. The early 1960’s were known for everyone dressing professionally to go to work, the men in suits and ties, the women in dresses and pearls. These were the days of the Rat Pack, before the British Invasion and the days of cocktail parties, drinks, non-politically correct sex and sexism and smoking. The party I might add did not have sex, sexism or smoking, but the flavor of the time was prevalent. The partiers were invited to come dressed for the era, and I have to admit that I certainly did not have a problem; I think my entire wardrobe could have been culled from the show. There were several “fedora” like hats, but not really from the era, there was even an ascot around one man’s neck tucked inside of his sport shirt, and I have to admit, that one couple came with the epitome of props for the party, a 1965 Thunderbird.

Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce

 

As soon as one stepped in to the their house, there greeting you was the name Sterling, Cooper, Draper and Pryce on the wall, just above one of the coolest radios from the thirties or the forties; unfortunately the mirror that was the backdrop of the cabinet reflected me taking a picture and it appears to be a television. The radio housed an elaborate bar service above the speakers and dials, and the theme was off and running. There was a photographer working the party and in the kitchen there was a bar set-up with a bartender who was creating cocktails of the time. There was also wine, but that will be another article, as I am setting the mood, as there was so much to absorb.
The Wine Raconteur Jr.’s wife left nothing to chance. She had matchbooks printed, and when was the last time you saw a matchbook, unless you have been to a casino. The coasters for one’s drinks were printed up with pithy quotes from the show, as well as frames of more quotes. There were vintage ads and vintage magazines placed strategically around the rooms, but the focal point was the food. His wife must have been cooking for a week at least, and maybe that is what gave the party away. There was appetizers and finger foods galore, every where one looked there was food. Looking at the assortment of foods, all I could think of was the great line from Frank Pentangeli “Hey, what’s with the food around here? A kid comes up to me in a white jacket, gives me a Ritz cracker, and uh, chopped liver, he says, ‘Canapés’. I said, uh, ‘can of peas, my ass, that’s a Ritz cracker and chopped liver!” As an aside, while all of the appetizers were excellent, the Rumaki may have been the finest that I have ever had, and for years that was one of the plates that circulated during the cocktail hour at the Christmas dinner with my club.

MateusLabel

The only thing that I noticed that was amiss and it may be only, because I came from that era, was Mateus and Riunite. Actually Mateus Rosé and Harvey’s Bristol Cream were the big wines from that time period, while Riunite was more from the end of that decade, into the Seventies. Well I guess I did sneak some wine into this first article.

Lambrusco Riunite

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A Crush

I have carried a secret crush, maybe not so secret crush for Sophia Loren, almost all of my life, and let us say I aspire big. Ever since I was a kid and dragged along by my parents to the old “art” theaters that were in Detroit, before they took on an unsavory connotation; back then “art” films were usually subtitled and from another country. I can remember seeing “Two Women,” “Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow” and “Marriage Italian Style” back then and I am sure that most of the dialogue and plots were over my head. I do remember the actress though and what a woman. My poor Bride can abide by this, as she knows that she is safe, I just hope she never meets Sam Elliot or I may not be safe. I started seeing advertisements for Sophia Loren coming to Detroit for one night to talk to the audience about her life and her films, and that night was my birthday; so I kept leaving the ads strewn across the kitchen table, in hopes that she might connect the dots. She did.

bieler-pere-fils-coteaux-daix-en-provence-2015

Sophia Loren was going to appear at the Detroit Opera House, which when I was a kid was a movie house with the grand artwork in the ceilings and the massive balcony (bigger than most theaters now) that one does not really see any more. Around the corner was Small Plates restaurant, which was the first restaurant in town to do tapas style dishes and I had never been there, but my Bride has been there often and likes it there. This is one of the restaurants where sharing dishes is the norm and the food comes out helter-skelter as it is finished in the kitchen, so one does not know when to expect each dish and that adds to the fun. Since there was also a Detroit Tigers game that evening, one could look at the attire of most of the diners and kind of figure out who was going to either of the two events. We ordered several dishes and they came out in a unique procession. We started off with the Lotus Flower Tuna which was seared Sesame crusted tuna, mango and jalapeno salsa, Wasabi aioli, avocado, soy reduction on fried wonton flowers. We had fried Brussels sprouts with white cheddar. The Small Plates Original Beef Sliders with Apple wood smoked bacon, white cheddar, grilled onions on Pretzel rolls. The Shrimp & Grits were spicy Bloody Mary shrimp over cheesy grits. The pan seared Sea Scallops were huge and prepared with Pecorino cheese, Fingerling potatoes, Arugula, cherry tomatoes and White Truffle oil. To finish the meal, my Bride had told our waiter that it was my birthday and they gave us a complimentary order of Chocolate Orange Bread Pudding with Bourbon caramel sauce. We were stuffed and by that time ready to walk over to the Opera House and climb the stairs to the balcony to see the show.

consilience-grenache-blanc-2013

The wine list was rather abbreviated, but well thought out. The first wine was Bieler Pere & Fils Coteaux D’Aix-en-Provence Cuvee Sabine 2015. Rosé wine is one of the stars of the Coteaux D’Aix-en- Provence, which is the second largest appellation of Provence. The wine is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Rolle (the local name for Vermentino. It was a delightful soft pink wine that was so refreshing to start the meal off with. The second wine for the evening was from the Central Coast of California, more specifically Santa Barbara County and it was Consilience Grenache Blanc 2013, which is part of the Sanger Family of Wines. This wine was a delightful blend of Estelle Grenache Blanc, La Presa Grenache Blanc and La Presa Sauvignon Blanc varietals that spent sixteen months in neutral older French Oak for aging. I also was very happy with this wine, which was more unique to me. All in all a most enjoyable way to spend my birthday.

an-evening-with-sophia-loren

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