Bernardus Winery and Marinus Restaurant

On one of our day trips, we were very over dressed to visit some of the wineries in the Carmel Valley.  The reason being, we planned on having the last wine tasting at Bernardus Winery.  Not that you have to be dressed up for the tasting room, but the tasting room was on the grounds, which also contained the Bernardus Lodge and Spa, and at the Lodge was where we were planning on having dinner that evening at Marinus Restaurant.

Bernardus Sauvignon Blanc Monterey 1999    Bernardus Sauvignon Blanc Monterey 2000

The grounds of the estate were beautiful; you could see the winery spread out in the back.  The Lodge and Spa were very enticing and made you feel that you were somewhere special.  When we went into the tasting room, we told them that we dinner reservations at the restaurant afterwards and all of a sudden we felt like royalty, with the attention lauded unto us.

Bernardus Chardonnay Monterey 1997  Bernardus Chardonnay Monterey 1999                                                          Bernardus Chardonnay Monterey 2000

We started off with a wine that they were quite proud of a Marsanne varietal grown on the estate in Carmel Valley, that was very refreshing and different in taste then other white wines that I had tried up to that time.  Since then I have had a few other bottles of this varietal, but this particular bottle has a special place for me.

Bernardus Cabernet Sauvignon Carmel 1998   Bernardus Marinus Carmel 2000

Then they offered us a couple of other white wines and allowed us to try a couple of different vintages, which I found very impressive.  The next two wines that they poured were made from vineyards in Monterey County.  The first was a Sauvignon Blanc and they we tried both a 1999 and a 2000 vintage.  Then they offered us tastes from three vintages of their Chardonnay wine, a 1997, a 1999 and a 2000.

CA Bernardus Lodge-Marinus Restaurant BC

We then tried two different red wines.  We had their estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 which was very enjoyable.  The last two wines that they poured for us were the best, as far as I was concerned.  They next poured us a 2000 Marinus which was also an estate wine.  This is a proprietary red wine that they make and it was excellent.

Bernardus Marsanne Carmel 1997

We finished the tasting, and bought a mixed case of wines, put that in our trunk and then proceeded to the Marinus Restaurant.  We had an excellent dinner from appetizers to dessert with out missing a course in between.  I can not, unfortunately recall our dinner as my mind was sidetracked this evening over other events.  I do recall that we started with a Bernardus Marsanne Estate 1997 and then we enjoyed a Bernardus Marinus 1997, which we did not have the pleasure of tasting earlier (or of having a chance to buy any of this vintage for our cellar).  We both recall having a wonderful dinner at Marinus and a great afternoon at the Bernardus Winery.

Bermardus Marinus Carmel 1997

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Casanova Revisited

On our return visit to Carmel, the first restaurant that we had to dine at was at Casanova.  The memory of our first dinner there was like a Siren calling us back.  The memory of our first night there was still etched in our brains.  After a day of window shopping at the art galleries and boutiques we looked forward to our dinner.

CA Casanova MB

We started off with a ravioli appetizer and then we both ordered the Free Range Chicken as we both wanted to relive that moment.  When it arrived, we were both happy that we had ordered it, as it was just as good as we remembered it from the first time we were there.

CA Casanova Band

One unusual and sad note was, when our waiter brought out the knives for our dinner entrée, the Laguiole steak knives were not presented.  A more pedestrian model was presented, albeit a fine steak knife was in its place.  When I mentioned it to our waiter, he said that if I would like to have them, that they still have the service, but they had so many stolen, that they stopped using them as a regular item.  We were both appalled when we heard that.  To think that such a fine establishment with a presumed quality clientele base would have this problem.

Georis Merlot Le Sangluer Carmel 2002

I had asked our waiter if there was a wine the restaurant was very pleased with, and he suggested the Georis Estate Merlot ‘Le Sanglier’ Carmel Valley 2002.  I said that is fine, and he went to get us a bottle.  When he returned I mentioned that we had a bottle of Georis wine the last time we were there as well, and he said that the principals of the restaurant also are in the winery as well.  We got to talking about wines, and after dinner our waiter took me on a tour of the wine cellar of the restaurant and I was in Nirvana.  It was a good size room that felt small because there were so many bottles of wine in the racks.  I had cellar envy, but that occurs often because a well filled cellar is a wonderful sight to behold.

After I returned from the tour, my Bride and I had coffee, dessert and some vintage port to finish another fine meal.  Then we walked back to our hotel room and looked forward to the rest of our vacation.

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Casanova in Carmel, California

Some may opine that I have this high thought of myself when I am on holidays, but actually it is the name of the first restaurant we dined at in Carmel.  When I was doing research on where to go for dinner, this was one of the restaurants that immediately beckoned to me.  How can you not want to see “Carmel’s Most Romantic Restaurant”?  It also did not hurt the research that they had a very good rating in the Wine Spectator magazine’s yearly dining guide.

Casanova Restaurant Carmel 2, CA

We started off with an Abalone appetizer that we shared.  Then my Bride ordered a dish of Free Range Chicken and I ordered a filet.  The filet was wonderful, but the chicken was out of this world and I think we ended up switching dishes.  I was so entranced by such a simple dish that was so perfectly prepared and it started me searching out other restaurants that featured Free Range Chicken.  I felt so parochial in my dining efforts after enjoying that meal.

CA Casanova Folder

Another little interesting fact that caught my attention was the steak knife that I was presented with to cut my filet.  The waiter brought me out a Laguiole steak knife to use.  If you don’t recognize the name, you may know it as the knife with the bumble bee logo on the handle.  I had never seen or held one, but I had read about them as being the finest steak knife to use.  The filet was like butter, so the knife may have been over kill, but I do enjoy the little nuances that I discover when we are out.  In fact a couple of days later, we were in a little boutique and I saw the same knives in a beautiful wooden box, when we priced them, my Bride said we could pass on them and stick to wine purchases.  She can be so practical at times.

Georis Sauvignon Blanc Monterey 2000

We were picking out a white wine to start out with, and our waiter suggested the Georis Sauvignon Blanc 2000.  This wine was very refreshing especially after a day of walking the town seeing some of the beauty of the city and getting acclimated to the streets.  We then had a bottle of Gevrey-Chambertin 1997 for the rest of the evening and it paired well with both of our entrée choices.

Gevrey-Chambertin Fourrier 1997

After dinner we enjoyed dessert, coffee and some vintage port, marveled at the beauty of the city and then walked back to our hotel.

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Doce Robles Winery & Vineyard in Paso Robles, California

On one of the days that we were driving around visiting wineries we came across Doce Robles in Paso Robles.  The name is Spanish for Twelve Oaks and they told us there were twelve oak trees on the property.  We were the only people in the tasting room during the time we were there.

Doce Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

The winery was basically brand new.  They had started planting in 1996, and their first vintage was 1998.  They only had a couple of wines for us to try when we were there.  We tried their 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon which I thought had a lot of fruit forward taste and light on the tannins as I recalled.  We bought a bottle of it, and tried it a couple years later and it was much better then I recalled it being at the tasting room.

Doce Robles Robles Rojos 2000

We also tried their Robles Rojos which was a Bordeaux style blended red and enjoyed it right on the spot.  There was more flavor and body, than the basic Cabernet Sauvignon offered, we bought three bottles of this wine, and enjoyed them a year apart for each one, just to see how well they aged.  The only problem sometimes is that you don’t buy enough at the time.

CA Doce Robles Business Card

They also offered I believe two other wines at the time a Zinfandel and a Barbera.  We tasted the Barbera wine, but did not buy any of it.  We did not try any of the Zinfandel wine as my Bride and I are not partial to this varietal.  I eventually will get over this bias of mine, as the taste always reminds me of the wine the old men used to make in their basements in Detroit.

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Cambria, California and a Side Trip for “Rosebud”

One trip we made from Carmel required an overnight bag, while we left most of our clothes and wine in Carmel at our bed and breakfast.  My Bride is still in contact with one of her girl friends from school who now lives in the Santa Barbara area.  She and her family came up and met us at the Hearst Castle, San Simeon.  Since none of us had ever been to this legendary home that is now run by the State of California, we figured this would be a great place to get together.

Kahn Sauvignon Blanc Santa Ynez Valley 2001

The Hearst Castle is immense and there are, I think four different tours you could take of the estate.  This home was the basis for “Xanadu” the fabulous mansion in “Citizen Kane” the classic cinema masterpiece by Orson Welles.  We spent most of the day there, and there could be several articles easily written about this tour, since none of them would involve wine, suffice it to say that we bought a few books about the mansion in the gift shop and went on our way.  The Golden Days of SanSimeon by Ken Murray

We left the mansion and our two groups drove further south to the town of Cambria, Pines by the Sea.  We walked around this quaint town that is known as the half way point between Los Angeles and San Francisco.  It is a quiet town with a small downtown and some art galleries.  We all stayed at this charming inn, the Cambria Pines Lodge.  We had dinner at the lodge and we all enjoyed a fine four course dinners that centered on seafood.  We also had a couple of bottles of Khan Sauvignon Blanc 2001 from the Santa Ynez Valley.  It just seemed perfect for dinner, or we were just so pleased with the days outing and the renewed friendship, that the wine was the perfect icing on the cake.  We talked and caught up during dinner, almost until the restaurant closed.

CA Cambria Pines Lodge MB

The next morning we all had breakfast at the lodge.  My Bride’s girlfriend and family then headed south to their home and we headed north.  Since we had taken the long and winding, albeit scenic Highway One South, we decided to take the inland expressway north back to Carmel.

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Bargetto Winery, Santa Cruz Mountains, California

On one of our day trips while we were in Carmel was into the city of Monterey, especially to see the area known as Cannery Row.  This day will be written about in several articles, I have already cited it once about a piece of art we purchased.  All I know is that this was a very expensive day during a week in our holidays in Carmel.

Bargetto Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains 2000

As we wandered around the historic waterfront area known as Cannery Row, we shopped in some boutiques and in some art galleries as well.   We also encountered a few wine shops, which had tasting rooms.  I was not aware of these tasting rooms before we got to Cannery Row.

Bargetto Dry Gewurztraminer Santa Cruz Mountains 2000

One of the tasting rooms that we entered was for the Bargetto Winery of the Santa Cruz Mountains in California.  We enjoyed hearing about this family from Italy that started the winery and of all the different varietals that they planted.  I remember that it was not a large room and it was packed with wines, little food items, wine paraphernalia and a tasting bar.

Bargetto Merlot Santa Cruz Mountains 1999

We tried several different wines and I remember four of the wines we tried, there may have been a couple of more, that we may have been more, but I only took three labels as memory keep sakes, and I wish I had taken a fourth one, as it was all but impossible to remove.

98lavitabig                                  Bargetto La Vita Santa Cruz Mountains 1998

We tried three wines from their Bargetto series; a Dry Gewurztraminer 2000, a Chardonnay 2000 and a Merlot 1999.  All were very well made and most enjoyable.  Then we tried a wine “La Vita” or “The Life” a wonderful red blended wine from the Italian varietals.  This wine is a blend of Dolcetto, Refosco and Nebbiolo grapes that are aged for two and a half years in oak barrels then aged a year in the bottle before release.  This was great and we bought a six pack of this wine, which became Christmas gifts to some of our dear friends, because we enjoyed this wine so much.  I enjoyed the label so much, but it looks like it went through a war or two.  The 1998 La Vita label shows a painting by Pierre Auguste Renior titled Luncheon of the Boating Party and I thought it would have looked great on my wall of labels, but it is pretty gnarly after I removed it from the bottle.  I found a true copy of the label to show side by side.

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Heller Estates, Carmel Valley

On our first trip to Carmel, during one of our road trips to see some wineries, one of them that we stopped at was Heller Estates.  They had a charming tasting room, with some unique sculptures on the grounds, which I believe were made by one of the principals of the company, if memory serves me right.  I have to presume that the sculpture that is featured on the labels is by the same artist, as there slogan is “Dances On Your Palate.”

Heller Estate Chardonnay Carmel 1999

 

We did a tasting, for that was the reason for the road trip.  I am glad that I was able to secure some labels from the winery, while we were there, as some of the labels have been lost in the soaking process, from the impossible glue that they have to attach to the glass.  So some of the wines that we tasted are gone from my memory, but I will mention the wines that I can safely vouch for.

Heller Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Cachagua Carmel 1999

 

The first wine that we tried was a 1999 Chardonnay with a very unique sculpture that is used on all of their labels, a dancing couple.  This wine was very enjoyable and is one of the varietals that I think of when I think of this area.

Heller Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Signature Release Carmel 1997

 

The other wines that I have memories of were made from the Cabernet Sauvignon grape.  The first wine that we tried was a Cachagua Cabernet Sauvignon 1999.  This is a region of the Carmel Valley and it means Hidden Springs.  The next wine we tried was a “Signature Release” Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 which I presume was the flagship wine that they were the most proud of, as I could not find my tasting notes from this winery.  The final wine that we tried was a Durney Vineyards Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 and I know that we enjoyed this wine the most; as it was the wine we purchased the most of, from the trip there.

Heller Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Durney Vineyards Carmel 1994

 

 

One thing about visiting the wineries in the Carmel Valley is that they tend to spread apart and you can work up another thirst, as you drive and look forward to the nest winery and tasting room, but it is a most enjoyable way to spend a day or two, or even a week at a time.

Heller Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Carmel 2000

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Chateau Julien

Driving into the Carmel Valley as you leave Carmel, you will see a very impressive white building that looks like it should be in France, you have arrived at Chateau Julien.  It is a beautiful setting, very serene on the day that we were there, though I am sure if it was during the harvest season, it would be much livelier.

Ch Julien Chardonnay 2000    Ch Julien Chardonnay 2001

We took a tour of the winery and were shown how they arrange the planting of the vines; we saw the aging room filled with barrels of assorted wines waiting for the proper maturation, so they could be bottled.  The tour was very educational and every question was answered in a professional manner.  We finally arrived in the tasting room, where we sampled some of the wines that were for sale.

 

Ch Julien Gewurztraminer Monterey 2000                           Ch Julien Pinot Grigio 2000

We tried the following wines from them, and they all carried the Monterey County appellation.  We tried two different Chardonnay wines, one from 2000 and a 2001 that was barrel fermented (this one we enjoyed more).  We also had a 2000 Pinot Grigio and a 2000 Gewurztraminer.  The Pinot Grigio was light and refreshing and the Gewurztraminer had the spice taste that I look for in this particular varietal.  As a bonus, because we had booked the tour in advance we were poured a special wine that is not offered in the regular tasting; this was a 1997 Private Reserve Chardonnay Sur Lie which was wonderful.  This wine was made to be cellared, instead of instant gratification.  We ended up purchasing a mixed case of the all the wines we had a chance to taste.  It would be on my list of wineries to see if you are in the area.

Ch Julien Chardonnay Private Reserve Sur Lie 1997

 

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Passionfish in Pacific Grove, California

On another day trip from Carmel we ventured into the lovely community of PCA Passionfish Cardacific Grove, which was just a short drive away.  The Victorian architecture was abundant and beautiful and it is the home of the oldest continual in use lighthouse on the Pacific coast.  We were told there are more Victorian structures in Pacific Grove, than any other area of the country and it was very picturesque.  As we slowly strolled the diverse downtown area of shops and of course ended up hungry and thirsty.

 

We decided on Passionfish which was recommended by many of the shopkeepers as the place in town to have dinner.  We were lucky to get a table as we did not have a reservation, because it was a spur of the moment decision.  We shared an appetizer of scallops and my Bride enjoyed a tilapia dish and I had a duck Confit.  I know that is sounds very repetitious of me, but I have a hard time saying no to a duck entrée.

Carmel Road Chardonnay 1998

 

The wine list was wonderful and they had The Wine Spectator Award proudly hanging on a wall, which is always a great image to see when entering a new restaurant.  The other great thing about the wine list is that it was priced at retail, instead of the usual restaurant mark-up, which I am sure is a boost for their wine sales.  We enjoyed a bottle of Carmel Road Chardonnay 1998 with our dinner.  It was a very good wine and it allowed us to maintain that Carmel experience.

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Ventana Inn & Spa, Big Sur, California

On one of our day trips from Carmel, we ventured out to Big Sur, which is an area along the ocean, with no real demarcation of the area.  There are few homes to be seen and there were some very rustic cabins for vacationers.  There are also a few five star resorts in this area.

CA Ventana MB

There is a beautiful Point Sur Lighthouse that was built of limestone in 1889 that is still maintained by the United States Coast Guard, but the original beacon is now viewed at the Monterey Maritime Museum, as the lighthouse is now fully automated.

Point Sur Lighthouse

As we drove around the area, we ended up having lunch at Ventana Inn and Spa.  This resort has to be seen to be appreciated; it is for movie stars and jet setters.  There are two pools; one which is clothing optional and each pool has a Japanese pool near by.  The spa offers all types of therapeutic services and is very lavish.  We saw many little cabins that guests could check into for their stay as well as the resort itself.

Changala Viognier Santa Barbara 2000

 

We stopped to have a lunch and to admire the grounds and the view.  Lunch was a very casual affair starting with quesadillas and a plate of hummus.  My Bride enjoyed a vegetarian burger and I had a chicken enchilada with guacamole and mole sauce, which is a sauce that I truly enjoy and always look for when we are out to eat.  We also had a nice bottle of Changala Viognier 2000 from Santa Barbara County which was very refreshing as the day was quite warm in the sun and the spice of this varietal paired well with our dishes.

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