Three From the “French Selections”

It is always fun to watch my Bride do wine tastings, especially at an event like “Sip & Shop” at Vertical Detroit, the fine wine-centric restaurant in Downtown Detroit which is also owned by The Fine Wine Source in Livonia, Michigan.  I say that it is fun, because at this event, she is wandering the room, not only talking about wines, but generally talking to everyone and having a wonderful time.  When we stopped by the “French Sellections” we enjoyed a few wines.  

We started with Domaine Gilles Noblet “La Collonge” Pouilly-Fuisse 2022.  Pouilly-Fuissé is known for the famous white wines of the Maconnais and the appellation was awarded in 1936, but had actually been structured back in 1922.  It is exclusively Chardonnay and grown on limestone-rich clay over a granite base.  Since the 2020 vintage, a Premier Cru appellation level was approved and there are twenty-two Premier Crus.  Domaine Gilles Noblet was founded in the village of Fuissé since 1927 with a current vineyard of twelve hectares.  It was during the fourth generation led by Gilles Noblet, who began bottling their own wines and moved the estate and new cellar to “En Collonge.” They are now in the fifth generation and in 2019 were certified as a high environmental value operation.  At harvest the bunches undergo pneumatic pressing and settled for twenty-four hours at low temperature, then the juice is placed in casks and oak barrels for both Initial Fermentation and Malolactic Fermentation; with aging on fine lees for twelve months.  A soft-golden-yellow wine that offers notes of lemon and citrus, hazelnuts, and spices.  On the palate beautiful tones of fruit, and spices, big and fresh, balanced, and ending with a splash of salinity, perfect for dinner.  

We then enjoyed a tasting of Arnaud Lambert “Breze” Clos Mazurique – Monopole Saumur Rouge 2022 and the wine used to go by the name of Chateau de Breze.  Arnaud Lambert calls himself a “winegrower in Breze” and a “Loire craftsman.”  Yves Lambert created the domaine in 1996, with the desire to exploit the terroir of Saumur-Champigny for both Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc. Arnaud joined his father in 2005 and in 2009 began their goal of working organically and they also acquired eight plots in the Monopole of the commune of Breze.  Saumur Rouge is the appellation for the area around Saumur in the central Loire Valley and Cabernet Franc, must be at least eighty-five percent of the wine, but in practice the wine is usually unblended.  The age of the vines in Breze are about forty years of age.  The Maceration, Initial and Malolactic Fermentation are done in Stainless Steel, followed by some aging in Concrete vats.  The wine had a deep-red color and offered notes of red and black fruits, bell pepper, violets, smoke, and spices.  On the palate very subtle notes of fresh plums and currants, with a smoky presence, and dry tannins with a softer interpretation of a Cabernet Franc, higher acidity, and a nice finish of limestone terroir.

Then we tried Esprit de Pavie Bordeaux 2017; produced by Gerard Perse, the owner of Chateau Pavie, Pavie-Decesse, Monbousquet and Bellevue-Mondotte.  Already the owner of the renowned Pavie, Pavie-Decesse, Monbousquet and Bellevue-Mondotte estates.  Chateau Pavie was originally planted during the Roman times and the estate has changed many times both in size and ownership and in 2012 was promoted to Saint-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé (A). Gerard Perse, a French supermarket “mogul” who has hired Michel Rolland as his consultant winemaker; Vignobles Perse is the name of the portfolio of his wine estates, including Esprit de Pavie which is his generic Bordeaux wine of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon in similar proportions to Pavie.  The fruit is sourced from across the region and aged in previously used oak from Pavie and Monbousquet.  The wine is a blend of sixty-five percent Merlot, twenty percent Cabernet Franc and fifteen percent Cabernet Sauvignon.  Initial Fermentation and Malolactic Fermentation is accomplished during several weeks in temperature-controlled tanks, after which the juice is aged for fifteen months in previously used barrels.  A nice ruby-red wine and offers notes of black and red fruits, oak, and caramel.  On the palate this wine offered tones of rich fruit, tight tannins, and a medium finish of fruit.  This was a fine medium-bodied, well-structured entry level Bordeaux that I thought was above its classification, not complex, but very satisfying and a great wine to drink for the next several years.