Fine Wine Source Club Selections – January 2023

If you don’t belong to a wine club, I would strongly recommend that you find a good one and join; if you are near Livonia, Michigan than I would suggest The Fine Wine Source.  I was just there yesterday, to pick up the January Club Selections and we were catching up, since the holidays.  I mentioned to the owner that I received a message on my blog, extolling his expert taste in wines, his knowledge and his ability to market to his customers.  There is always laughter and true appreciation towards the customers, and respect to the wholesale wine salesman, as I once again was able to witness yesterday.  The also offered me an impromptu tasting, and asked if I could back the next day to try some wines that may make the cut for their restaurant and for the wine shop.  You really could not ask for a better way to spend a couple of hours.

The wine representing the Old World is one that I am well acquainted with, as I even tasted this wine back in May 2022.  Lorenzo Gatteschi of Podere Ciona had hosted a tasting of his family’s wines that day, and their winery is in one of the oldest parts of the Chianti region on a south-facing hill and the estate has thirteen acres of vineyards, two acres of olive groves and one-hundred acres of woodlands, plus assorted fruit trees, chickens, vegetable gardens and soon apiaries.  The Podere Ciona Chianti Classico 2018 is the winery’s basic Chianti wine and they still maintain their desire to only produce one bottle of wine per vine.  The soil of the vineyards is a mix of sandstone, clay schist and marl. Depending on the vineyard the vines are between seven to eighteen years in age.  The wine is eighty-nine percent Sangiovese, nine percent Merlot and two percent Alicante Bouschet.  They still maintain hand harvesting and initial fermentation is in Stainless Steel for about ten days with extended post-fermentation maceration on the skins for about a month, followed by malolactic fermentation, and then aged in French Oak for about eighteen months, finally refined for twelve months in the bottle.  This light-ruby colored wine offered notes of red fruits and spices, and on the palate fresh fruit, soft tannins and a velvety texture from the Merlot with a nice medium finish of fruit and terroir.

The next selection represented the New World with Dunning Vineyards Chardonnay Paso Robles/Willow Creek District 2018.  Another moment of déjà vu as I had a chance to taste this wine as it was being touted by their neighbor Willie Newman of Tre Son Winery back in January 2022, in fact I enjoyed this wine so much that I had to take some bottles home to my Bride, who didn’t attend the tasting with me.  Bob and Jo-Ann Dunning are the winemakers and owners of this forty-acre estate which was established in 1991 on the west side of Paso Robles.  The winery produces about fifteen-hundred cases a year using several different varietals.  This Chardonnay wine is produced in the classic Burgundian style with full oak barrel fermentation and sur-lees aged for one year.  It was a delightful wine with notes of pear and citrus, nutmeg and vanilla.  The wine had a nice creamy taste with balance acidity and layers of flavor that opened up and finished with a nice medium finish of terroir. 

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Black Star Farms Winter 2023 Club Selections

It is wonderful getting new club selections, as it is always fun and getting something that I might not try, because we are all creatures of habit.  Originally, we tried a couple of their wines at a business conference and they were stellar, but not their famous Black Star Farms Arcturos Dry Riesling Michigan 2017; but their Cabernet Franc 2013 was out of this world.  After the conference, we went directly to the winery and had such a great experience at the tasting, that we had to join, not to mention some wines on the spot.

The first wine out of the box, was an interesting wine for them.  It is a Black Star Farms Sparkling Riesling Michigan NV.  The Riesling is a major varietal for the entire region and especially for Black Star Farms.  The fruit for this wine comes from both the Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsulas, hence the Michigan AVA.  This is the third issue of this wine for them, and I have to believe that they use the Charmat Method to produce this sparkling wine, and it appears to have a bottle cap sealant under the capsule.  The wine is described as having pear and green apple on the palate with marked minerality on the finish.  The notes also mentioned that sparkling wines when consumed young will show fresh, crisp qualities; while when cellared properly the wine will soften and display a creaminess on the palate and the wine is suggested to last for about five years.

The second wine was produced in limited quantities and it was the Black Star Farms Arcturos Merlot Leelanau Peninsula 2020. A trickier wine to grow in Michigan, because of the potentially cooler temperatures, but when it clicks, it can be awesome.  There is little information to be culled from their newsletter or from their website about wine production.  Their notes are “on the palate there are rich dark fruit flavors that complimented by hints of cocoa and spice.” I am very partial to Merlot, so it shall be fun to try it, after it has settled.

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ATOM Wine Club Winter 2023 Part Two

I guess that with all wine clubs, it is fun to see what you eventually get for later enjoyment.  With “A Taste of Monterey” as well as our other clubs, it may be years, before I open the bottle, sometimes by design and sometimes because one forgets.  I know that the smart person will try the wine immediately, because if it is a winner, you can get more.  Of course, maybe bragging a little bit, we have plenty of wines, some that should be opened sooner than others.  And we never know, what we may end up drinking with dinner, when we are home.

The second bottle of wine that was pulled out of the carton was Pianetta Vineyards Sangiovese San Antonio Valley AVA 2019.  Pianetta Vineyards was started in 1995, when John Pianetta bought a ninety-five-acre ranch and developed it into seventy-acre vineyard.  His family’s background was in the fresh market produce in California going back to the 1920’s.  At one time they even had a small family vineyard in Lodi. The vineyard is in the Southern part of Monterey County in a small valley called “Indian Valley.” The vineyard was basically planted with Cabernet Sauvignon and fifteen acres for Syrah. Originally, they sold their crops to other wineries and in 2002 they had their first vintage of three-hundred-seventy cases of estate wine.  It is now a family business as his daughter Caitlin has joined her father and they now produce about 2500 to 3500 cases of wine annually and only in red wines. They have started sourcing wines from other vineyards and doing single variety wines.  They also produce a “JUG” wine each year as an homage to their Italian heritage.  This Sangiovese wine is from fruit sourced from the Lockwood Valley Vineyards in the San Antonio Valley.  The wine was aged for twenty months in what I will presume was oak barrels, which would be the classic treatment for this famed Italian variety.  According to the notes, the wine is offering bright cherry on the nose, with notes of roasted nuts and red fruit for taste, with strong acidity on the finish which means that it should be laid down for at least six years to mellow the wine out. I can wait it out.

The last bottle out of the carton was Mission Trail Vineyard “Friars’ Reserve” Meritage Monterey 2018.  Mission Trail Vineyards takes their name from the Mustard plants that can still be found, as the seeds were spread out by the Franciscan Friars around two-hundred-thirty years ago as they planted the original vineyards in the area.  Those original vineyards are long gone, but there are plenty of vineyards in Monterey, so those Friars recognized good land back then.  In Monterey County there are about forty different varieties of grapes being grown.  Ken and Robyn Rauh created Mission Trail Vineyards on the premise of featuring small lots of hand-crafted wines, from different locations throughout the county.  Their goal is to produce robust and fruit forward wines featuring Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Marsanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Zinfandel and a Meritage.  This wine is seventy-three percent Cabernet Sauvignon and twenty-seven percent Merlot.  There were no other production notes available.  The wine is described as deep Garnet with a nose of blackberry, cassis and oak.  The palate will appreciate first flavors of plum and blackberry that layer into chocolate and cassis, with a finish of terroir and cedar. 

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ATOM Wine Club Winter 2023 Part One

The first wine club we ever joined was “A Taste of Monterey” and it was purely by happenstance.  We were going to eat at the famed Sardine Factory in Monterey and we were wandering around the Cannery Row district and we ended up buying the most expensive piece of art in our home, but also discovered the wine club.  We were just doing a wine tasting, when they mentioned that they had a wine club, well that was back in the days, when Michigan was a felony state for the shipment of wines.  (Our governor at the time was sued along with the State and the courts realized that the State was wrong and caused hardships to the citizens.  The case of Granholm vs. Heald was a boon across the country for wine lovers, but the one term governor has since found a new way to cause havoc to the state of Michigan, possibly in retribution.)  Back then I was used to shipping “olive oil” by the cases to my place of employment, and here was a club that said it was legal for them to ship, and they have been shipping ever since.

When we joined, they had two clubs to choose from, and now they have three.  We went with their “Private Reserve Club” as I figured that we had a chance to get some better and limited production wines, that would probably get any interest from the wholesalers in my state.  A few times the wines that were shipped were from one or two barrels of production.  And we have had a chance to discover some of the smaller AVA sub-regions in Monterey, that in the early days, hardly even got a mention.  The club offers about two-hundred-fifty different wines from about seventy-five wineries is Monterey.   With our club program, we get three wines quarterly and, in this carton, we receive one from a new winery for us, and two wines from wineries that we have had before.

The new winery and wine are Exposition Estate Vineyards Monterey Sparkling Wine NV is from a cold-climate (Region 1), sustainably farmed about two miles south of Soledad.  The area gets full sun exposure, but little protection from the strong winds that scrub the valley every afternoon, hence it is considerably cooler compared to Santa Lucia Highland and Arroyo Seco AVAs. The wine is a blend of fifty-three percent Pinot Noir and forty-seven percent Chardonnay.  The wine is produced in the Traditional Method or Methode Champenoise.  Primary fermentation was done slowly and at a cold temperature.  Then the wine was bottled with sugar and yeast, for secondary fermentation in the bottle and after aging forty months on the lees, the wine was riddled.  The settled lees were frozen to form a “plug” and disgorged, then the sparkling wine was quickly corked to maintain the effervescence.  The tasting notes for the wine describe it as dry, elegant and complex cuvee which exhibits bright fruit, crisp acidity and a toasty creaminess.  

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New Year’s Day 2023

I have a philosophy or maybe just a misguided thought, that whatever I do on New Year’s Day is what I will do the most of during the year.  Thankfully, whatever struck me on the eve, was out of my system in a day.  So, I was able to devote my day to more earthly pleasures like eating, drinking and revelry; I even put on a new set of clothes, that were a Christmas present.  Life is good.  Of course, we may have purchased an over abundance of appetizers, real food and wine (did I really say that we may have bought too much wine?).

We had an abundance of fresh fruit sliced up, several cheeses including a Lemon Ricotta and a Cheddar with Truffles (which disappeared before I even tried it), and a Liver Pate.  She was baking some miniature muffins, and several types of Quiches.  She also had classic and Canadian Bacon for meat for the brunch.  Of course, it wouldn’t be brunch without some Mimosas. The Mimosas were a continuation from the sparkling wines from just twelve hours ago. Domain Chandon Brut California NV is a delightful wine, that my Bride and I had a chance to visit, years ago.  It was the first time that a French sparkling house owned a winery in Napa, a joint venture of Moet and Chandon and John Wright, back in 1973.  The fruit is from cooler regions of Napa, and including their own estate in Yountville.  It is a blend of seventy-three percent Chardonnay, twenty-six percent Pinot Noir and one percent Pinot Meunier.  The wine is made in the Methode Traditionelle and a minimum of twelve months is required to make the finished product.  The initial fermentation is done is Stainless Steel and the second fermentation is done in the bottles after riddling, it then corked and aged for at least three months before release.  The wine is a pretty straw color with tiny bubbles and offering notes of stone fruit, toast and vanilla.  On the palate a nice cream texture of fruit, vanilla and bright acidity with a touch of sweetness (how I enjoy my Brut wines) and a nice finish.

As the brunch continued, some guests showed up after a tradition in Detroit, not necessarily in our house, but the Detroit Lions were playing football, real American football not the game played elsewhere, and maybe another time in my lifetime they may be a real team again.  And they won, well we had more people that arrived and brunch morphed into a dinner.  Thankfully my Bride had made some stuffed cabbage that she didn’t want to compete with our son’s version, as well as other foods that she prepared last minute to keep everyone fed and of course, no one died of thirst either.   All the desserts came out in full force from cookies, pies and a tray of Baklava.  I guess I should never tease my Bride about having an over abundance of food, as one never knows when you may have a ten-hour brunch, as one never knows when you may have a ten-hour brunch.  

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New Year’s Eve 2022/2023

We had the daily double for the holiday, we were doing New Year’s Eve dinner and then everyone was coming back here the next day for a New Year’s Brunch.  I thin part of it was logistics, because it was the best location for the Louisville contingent.  We had to make room once again for a dog cage in the family room as they now travel with a pet, and only the pet thinks that it is a lap dog.  I don’t know what happened, but I was very sick for a day, it started in the morning and by a little after nine in the evening, I just snuck off in the shadows and went to sleep, I ate nothing for the day, but I did try some of the wines that we were pouring, before I called it a night; and left my Bride to be the perfect hostess.

Actually, she got off pretty easy as our son insisted that we have an homage to his late grandmother, so, we had an evening of Polish food; and he did all the cooking and catering basically for the evening.  He insisted that the real version of Pierogis is with pork and veal that have been pureed, instead of potatoes and cabbage.  He also made Stuffed Cabbage with beef and veal.  I did some consulting with other wine people to find what they thought would pair with cabbage, which has its own unique characteristics.  The consensus was to have a Rosé wine, and it did work very well, as I heard the next day.  So, besides having a couple of Chardonnay wines open, one of the main wines was Clarendelle Rosé Bordeaux 2021.  Clarendelle is part of the Clarence Dillon Wine Group, which was established in 2005 and they offer four wines; a red, white, rosé and a dessert wine with the fruits coming from Dillon estates across Bordeaux.  The selling point of this wine is that the Dillon family in 1935 bought Chateau Haute-Brion.  The wine is a blend of sixty-five percent Merlot, thirty-two percent Cabernet Sauvignon and three percent Cabernet Franc.  The fruit was harvested in the last two weeks of September and had direct pressing, and a short maceration and fermentation period, presumably in Stainless Steel, to maintain the crisp, fruit flavors.  The pale pink-salmon colored wine offered notes of tropical fruits like Pomegranates and Lychee.  On the palate, tones of fruit, a touch of menthol, pepper with very soft tannins, fresh with a medium finish of fruit. 

Now not only did he make all the main courses, he also did a traditional Polish dessert.  He made Nalesniki z Serem, or Crepes with Sweet Cheese and I understand that he did a yeoman’s job, since we don’t have a crepe pan.  Now you have to understand that we had people coming in from about five in the afternoon and a continuous influx up to the Midnight hour.  My Bride came up to check on me, but she said that I was totally out of it, even with the fireworks that were going off and everyone yelling Happy New Year, though I probably feel that it is safe to say that no one sang Auld Lang Syne.  Another consensus was that I have a lighter red, perhaps not as dry as what we usually serve, and a few recommended a Gamay, but I did have some lighter reds in the cellar.  We served Black Star Farms Vintners Select Red Table Wine Michigan NV.  The Vintners Select collection is a blend of different vintages of all small lots with unique characteristics.  The wine carries a Michigan appellation as eighty-three percent of the fruit is from the Leelanau Peninsula and seventeen percent is from Old Mission Peninsula.  This wine is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Teroldego, Merlot and Petite Pearls.  The wine is aged in a blend of newer French, European and American Oak.  The wine was described by the winery as a full-bodied red, but I thought it was more of a medium bodied red wine.  It had a nice deep garnet color and offered notes of dark fruit and spices.  On the palate there was dark fruit flavors with some spices and a touch of cocoa.  Even though I didn’t eat, I did taste the wine, before I called it a night and I thought it should pair quite well.    

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Christmas Day 2022

Another sister had volunteered her home for a Christmas brunch, it was the first Christmas without the Matriarch of the family and the sisters were all trying to test the waters to continue traditions.  Last year as in all the previous years, the families all crowded into the house that they all grew up in, and the mother at 95 was still having a brunch on Christmas Day.  It was good and all the local sisters were together.  Of course, I can remember for years my family would do the same thing for every Sunday and holiday at my grandmother’s flat back in Detroit, but my father and his two sisters all lived with in a block of each other.  That era will never be duplicated. 

We were not the first to get to the brunch, as after church, my Bride went to a Senior Facility, and as a Eucharistic Minister served Communion for those at the facility that wished to partake.  She then picked me up and we drove across town for the gathering.  There were scrambled eggs and ham, pancakes and brown-sugar dusted bacon for the crowds.  And what would a brunch be without Mimosas?  The first Mimosa, I tried was made with Member’s Mark Asolo-Prosecco Superiore DOCG NV.  I did not know the brand, but I have since found out that it is sold exclusively through Sam’s Club big box stores.  Member’s Mark is their house label.  The fruit is all harvested from the vineyards surrounding Asolo, in the Veneto region of Italy.  The wine is made with eighty-five percent Prosecco (if it wasn’t from a Prosecco region it would have to be called Glera, and the other fifteen percent was a mix of Blanchetta, Perera and Boschera grapes, which are three indigenous white varieties of the region; definitely three for the Century Club, if I do ever get my arse in gear to attempt to fill out the questionnaire.  This sparkling wine, I am quite sure was done using the Charmat Method.  I tried a taste, before completing the Mimosa, and it was nice straw to golden color wine with medium size bubbles with notes of pears, apples and lemon zest.  On the palate the tree fruits had nice acidity, some yeast was detected and perhaps some honey.  I then added my tincture of orange juice and it was a nice Mimosa, perhaps a bit on the sweeter side, but it worked.

We continued noshing during the day, and then they started playing a dice game, that they all played when they were together up at the family cottage in Ontario, Canada.  I am the only in-law that doesn’t share those cottage days, as I appeared much later on the horizon.  We brought some wines to the table, but one of the wines was a big hit, both on Christmas Eve and again on Christmas Day, and we actually were taking orders for it, from a couple of people, so we had to make plans to go and get some more if possible and that will be an article on its own.  Another sparkling wine that was used for the Mimosas is a brand that has been around forever to me and that is Andre Champagne Cellars Brut California Champagne NV.  The wine is from E&J Gallo Winery and they have a couple of sparkling wines in their portfolio that carry the “California Champagne” designation.  There is no listing of the varieties that are used to make the wine and the wine does mention Secondary Fermentation on the label, and I am sure that the wine is made in the bulk Charmat Method.  The light-colored wine with medium bubbles offers notes of pears and lemon zest, while on the palate both flavors are apparent with some acidity, and it is just a good easy drinking sparkling wine that blends very easily with orange juice.     

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Christmas Eve 2022

What by all rights in a proper setting, Christmas Eve would have been a totally joyous occasion, but with the Matriarch of my Bride’s family having passed away within the year, it was a day of observation and reflection.  As with most institutions that are no longer in vogue in today’s society, families have become splintered, as fodder for today’s idea of culture.  The five daughters are attempting to keep the family intact, and it will be the next generation that will have to make it work, as it seems that families lament that cousins no longer know each other, whereas in my day, you tripped over cousins all the time at family get-togethers from holidays to birthdays. 

We had Christmas Eve at one of the sister’s houses and all but the Louisville clan made it, but it was already known that they would be able to attend the New Year’s weekend celebration.  We got there early to help, as my Bride has always been one to chip in and get the work done, as she is a planner and not a procrastinator.  I have to give my sister-in-law credit; she had announced that dinner would be at five in the afternoon and she would begin serving at that hour.  There were plenty of appetizers laid out and a few of us made the most of the noshes, in between getting dishes out of the ovens and into warming chambers; and constantly checking the meats with thermometers to make sure that all was at the proper settings.  One of the wines being poured early on was La Marca Prosecco DOC NV. The company was founded in 1968 as a cooperative of wine growers in the Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of Italy.  Since its beginning it has now grown and comprises nine cooperative wineries predominately in the Prosecco DOC region. These wine growers comprise some nine-thousand hectares of vineyards of mainly Prosecco (or Glera when the grape is not from the DOC district) as well as a few other grape varietals for some of the other wines that they produce. La Marca uses the Charmat Method and they do a great job with it.  In 2007, Wine Spectator magazine listed La Marca as being one of the “Top 100 Wines of the Year.” The wine is an easy crowd pleaser and never disappoints.  A nice soft-golden color with medium size bubbles, the wine offers notes of citrus and stone fruit and a touch of honey.  On the palate it has tones of citrus and peaches in a refreshing off-dry wine with nice acidity that beckons for another glassful.

For the main entrée dishes, there was an air-roasted pre-brined Turkey with an Apple Stuffing, a Roast Pork Tenderloin and if that was not enough, there was also a Standing Rib Roasted cradled and tied.  I offered my help with the meats, about letting them continuing cooking out of the oven, just tented with aluminum foil, until it was time to carve, and I am good at kibbitzing about such artwork.  It was amazing that at five, the house became alive with diners, so alas, a lot of the appetizers were not enjoyed as much as in the past.  We had taken a couple of whites and reds for the dinner, but my brother-in-law wanted me to try this wine that he had found and my Bride was raving to me about it from another evening when she was with her sister.  We had a bottle of Bodega Aleanna El Enemigo Cabernet Franc 2018 from Mendoza, Argentina. El Enemigo means the enemy, and the vintners Adrianna Catena and Alejandro Vigil applied this quote on the back label “At the end of the journey we remember only one battle: the one we fought against ourselves, the original enemy. The one that defined us.” The wine was ninety percent Cabernet Franc with ten percent Malbec blended in. The fruit came from the Gualtallary district of Mendoza, an elevated district with deep-calcareous, rocky soil.  Maceration and fermentation were done over a five-week period and then was aged for sixteen months in hundred-year-old foudres (very large casks). The wine had a beautiful deep garnet color, with notes of red and black fruits. On the palate it started off very jammy with ripe berries and black currants with good acidity and a smoky edge, but it opened up during the course of the meal and the initial jammy tasted softened up; it turned out to be an excellent and refreshing wine choice.

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Donnafugata Contrada Marchesa

I sometimes think that I am the only blogger I know that has not written about this lauded winery.  It is because, I only write about wines that I encounter, which may explain the myriad of wines that I write about. I normally try to write in a somewhat chronological sequence of wines, but for a while, all bets are off, but it should still work.  One of my cast of characters is The Wine Raconteur, Jr. (a name that he gave himself) and he and his family went to the old country for a vacation, as he watched his parents, his wife and children reacquaint themselves with Sicily gave me a bottle of wine that he made sure was not being exported to the States. The name of the winery is a very romantic take on the novel Il Gattopardo, and “Donna in fuga” is basically “woman on the run” about Maria Carolina, Queen of Naples, who escaped to Sicily ahead of Napoleon’s army in the early 1800’s and the wineries are basically on what was her estate at one time.

Donnafugata is a wine company based in Sicily, by the Rallo family who have a history of winemaking going back to the 19th Century.  Donnafugata was established in 1983 by Giacomo and Gabriella Rallo and is now in the hand of their children.  They have five different wineries located in different sub-regions of Sicily, including on the neighboring island of Pantelleria.  The wineries use both indigenous varieties and international favorites and they produce both DOC and IGT wines, because of the grapes that they grow.  They have about three-hundred-thirty-eight hectares of vineyards between the islands of Sicily and Pantelleria.

I am going to discuss Donnafugata Etna Rosso DOC Contrada Marchesa 2018 and the first vintage of this wine was 2017. The wine is pure Nerello Mascalese and grows on the northern slope of Mt. Etna at Castiglione di Sicilia at around 750m above sea level on lava soil, rich in minerals.  This vineyard is about two hectares in size, with some vines about eighty-years of age.  The fruit is manually harvested and the fruit goes through further selection on a vibrating table and destemmer to only select ripe berries.  Fermentation and maceration on the skins is for about twelve days in Stainless Steel.  Then aging for fourteen months in French Oak and an additional twenty-two months or so in bottle, before being released for retail.  The label represents a volcano-goddess adorned with jewels, flowers and fruits, as well as the village of Castiglione di Sicilia.  The wine is described as a light-ruby-red with notes of red fruits, balsamic, rosemary and thyme and some cinnamon.  On the palate tones of raspberry and cherry, great balance and a fine tannic texture with finishes with a long count of the volcanic terroir.  The winery feels that it will age for at least ten years.  A wonderful gift, and now I have to figure out a special dinner and occasion to make it totally magical.

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New Year’s Eve Ramblings

When I was young New Year’s Eve was a night to go out with your date to a night club, have dinner, wine and Champagne and dance the night away.  We had people that personified cool for that night on the town.  No body did it better when I was growing up than the ones that had style.  They were there for their enjoyment and for their lady.  They didn’t pose, they actually had a good time.

Somewhere along the road night clubs disappeared, and there might be four different seating times for the same New Year’s Eve.  Dance floors disappeared, well that is expected when music stopped being romantic and so did couples.  All I know, is that that night, became a cash-cow with no revelry.  Service is now expected to be poor on this night, and a guaranteed tip is factored in.  The cool factor is gone, we now have a dinner parties at the house and it has become a tradition.  So far, so good, and we will see how well this tradition continues.  I am glad that I learned from the best.    

My Bride and I wish that the New Year bring you plenty of love, luck, health and happiness.

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