A Taste of Monterey – Summer 2024

Posted on July 2, 2024 by thewineraconteur

We just received our wine club shipment from “A Taste of Monterey” that we joined by accident when we discovered the shop and that they could ship to Michigan, because then we were a Felony State for wine shipments, and the governor back then was sued to eliminate this, now she is back trying to eliminate Americans from buying gas stoves for their kitchens.  Regardless, of that, “A Taste of Monterey” is celebrating their thirtieth anniversary, we have been with them since 10 February 2003 and always with the Reserve Wine Selections, in anticipation of getting wines that otherwise won’t get to Michigan, because of production quantities.

The first wine that came out of the carton was Le Mistral White Witch Arroyo Seco AVA 2022.  Folktale Winery and Vineyards was originally founded in 1982 by Bob and Patty Brower, as Chateau Julien Wine Estate and they wanted to replicate their wine experiences in France to the Carmel Valley.  In 1996 they expanded the property and structures to ensure that they were making great wines, and my Bride and I visited Chateau Julien each time we had holidays in Carmel-by-the-Sea.  In 2015, the property was purchased by local winemaker, Gregory Ahn, and renamed Folktale Winery and Vineyards; and as a side note, from what I gather the label Chateau Julien is still property of the Brower family.  The five-acre vineyard at the winery is one-hundred percent organically farmed, and they are working towards this goal in the three-hundred acres in the Arroyo Seco that they maintain.  The name “White Witch” was coined by owner Greg Ahn for Monterey’s daily barrage of coastal fog and wind that moves from the cool Pacific Ocean down the Salinas Valley every afternoon.  The wine is a blend of thirty-eight percent Roussanne, thirty-four percent Marsanne, twenty-two percent Grenache Blanc, and six percent Viognier, and grown on the estate.  Each variety was harvested and pressed separately, before being racked to barrel for Initial Fermentation, and then continued through for Malolactic Fermentation.  Then the individual wines were blended in the spring, barrel aged until mid-summer, when the wine was bottled.  The wine has an estimated aging potential of about eight years.  The winery suggests the nose will offer notes of peach, apricot, honeydew melon, pear along with chalk, almond husk, and hay.  On the palate, the fruit tones continue with moderate acidity, balanced, and a soft texture and creaminess.

The second wine was Big Sur Vineyards Big Sur Red Monterey 2022.  Big Sur Vineyards began as an olive grove and they also made artisan soaps, on the edge of the Ventana Wilderness.  They began planting Rhone varietals as a hobby to see what would happen, and they eventually began producing their Big Sur Vineyards Red; recently they officially became a Rhone Ranger.  The family wine business has been evolving since their first bottling in 2013 and offering Pinot Noir, Pinot Noir Reserve, Chardonnay, and Big Sur Red.  A little later they began offering bottling of other individual varietals.  This wine originally was a blend of three varietals, but now they have added a fourth; Syrah, Petite Sirah, Mourvedre, and Grenache.  No production notes, but the wine is said to have an aging potential of seven to nine years. The wine is described as a ruby red color offering notes of thyme, marjoram, oregano, crushed violets, and raspberry jam.  On the palate a medium-bodied wine with tones of tart cherry, boysenberry, cassis, and blueberry with secondary tones of black pepper, cumin, and chili powder with a savory and saline finish.

The last wine in the carton was Russell Joyce Winery Syrah Santa Lucia Highlands 2021.  The origins of this winery was when Russell’s father could set up his dentistry practice, and a race shop, as he competed as a professional race car driver as well, as the property was near the Laguna Seca raceway.  In 1986, he planted a small five-acre vineyard around the family home and Joyce Winery was created.  The fruit for this wine comes from the stewardship of Joe Alarid and his Tondre Grapefield which is SIP Certified.  There are four acres are planted to Syrah, which they contract for, on the well-drained gravelly loam soils.  The fruit is hand-harvest, and sixty percent undergoes whole-cluster Initial Fermentation with indigenous yeasts in small open-top temperature-controlled tanks.  Afterwards, the wine is aged on the lees for ten months in neutral French Oak, then racked to tanks and allowed to settle for one month prior to bottling, and it is bottled unfined and unfiltered.  The wine is described as offering notes of chocolate covered cherry, cooked cranberry, with violets, and vanilla.  On the palate tones of fresh raspberry, fresh blackberry, black tea, and dried pine needles.    

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Bibi Graetz, Lindes de Remelluri, and Vietti

Posted on June 29, 2024 by thewineraconteur

After the wonderful tasting dinner at Vertical Detroit, I then went to The Fine Wine Source to pick up the wines that we ordered the night before.  I also got a chance to say hello to Alexandra Sineau, the Export Director of Famille Picard, and Manou Chahmirzadi of David Milligan Selections the import house one more time, as they were doing a wine tasting at the shop on Friday and Saturday as well.  It was very busy and crowded so, I tried to keep myself occupied, which is so hard for me to do at a wine shop, and I also retasted all the wines, to make sure I still agreed with my original notes.

I also saw a great display of the few wines that they have left from the Bibi Graetz vertical and wine tasting that we had attended just a little while ago.   Bibi Graetz is an artist who studied at the Accademie d’Arte in Florence (and his artwork can be seen on the labels of the wines) and a Tuscan wine producer in Fiesole, in the hills northeast of Florence.  Bibi Graetz is recognized as a very innovative winemaker, sometimes unconventional, especially in Tuscany and he is championing for indigenous and sometimes forgotten grape varieties.  There were a few Library offerings still available in magnum, double magnum, and imperial bottles.  Then there were some six-packs of the Testamatta with the special metal work covers that I had mentioned, but neglected to photograph; am I a terrible reporter or blogger, and people had written to me asking to see the art.  Also, there was the Collezione Verticale which offered the Colore Rosso Toscana IGT 2015, 2016 and 2020.  The 2015 vintage was the first time being offered in America and only with the commemorative set, which also included a copy of his artwork that is used for the label.  A great recent wine memory.     

Then I saw a brand-new collection since the last time that I was there, a special six-pack from Granja Nuestra Senora de Remelluri “Las Lindes de Remelluri” Rioja DOCa 2020 in a horizontal presentation with an accompanying map showing the sites.  A vertical collection offers a set of different vintages from the same site, where a horizontal collection offers the same vintage from different plot, showcasing the different terroirs.  Remelluri is a family winery near Labastida in the Alavesa zone of Rioja and known for their use of Tempranillo.  The estate was founded by monks in the 14th Century, though the vineyards probably preceded that time. The estate has changed ownership over the years, but in 1967 it was purchased by Jaime Rodriguez, and in 2010 his children took over.  Fruit from established contract growers in the nearby village goes into the wines sold under the Las Lindes de Remelluri label.  Each is named for the village in question: Sanillas de Buradon, Labistida, Rivas de Tereso, San Vincente de la Sonsierra, Pecina and Abalos.  The vinification for these wines is essentially the same, using native yeasts, little new oak is used, light filtration and fining and ten months in French Oak.  For comparison the Labastida vineyards lay at a higher altitude, hence the wine is higher in acidity and lower in alcohol than the San Vincente; consequently, each designation will be unique.  I think this may be a wonderful way to feature a special wine tasting event.

We went from a vertical, to a horizontal and finally just a unique wine pour as my bill was being tallied.  I enjoyed some Vietti Trevigne Barbera D’Asti DOCG 2021.  Vietti is a wine producer in Piedmont, known for their Barolo and Barbera wines, along with being one of the proponents of resurrecting the Arneis variety.  The estate began producing its first wines with the family name in 1919 and they were one of the original wineries to ship Barolo to the USA.  Barbera D’Asti is from the hilly areas of Asti in the eastern Piedmont, with elevations from 90 – 300 meters, though historically the best spots of soil and exposure are reserved for Nebbiolo grapes which mature on the vine slower and require more time.  The Barbera grapes for this wine are sourced from three vineyards in the region.  The process begins with cold maceration, and then Initial Fermentation in Stainless Steel for about two weeks, followed by post-maceration on the skins.  After the racking, the wine is then transferred to barriques for Malolactic Fermentation and aging for about twelve months.  This ruby-red wine offers notes of black cherries, plums, violets, and vanilla.  On the palate tones of black cherries and blackberries, blended with soft tannins delivers a crisp and balanced wine that finishes with a taste of red cherries.

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Domaine Levert-Barault and the Third Course

Posted on June 26, 2024 by thewineraconteur

Our evening was progressing very well, and everyone was enjoying our hosts The Fine Wine Source and their restaurant Vertical Detroit.  We were having a wine tasting and pairing dinner, while being regaled by Alexandra Sineau, the Export Director of Famille Picard, and Manou Chahmirzadi of David Milligan Selections the import house.  The third course of the meal was Pan Roasted Salmon with Almond Romesco over a bed of Confit Baby Potatoes and Kale.  I know that we will be having Romesco Sauce at the home very soon, as my Bride was very thrilled with the taste and texture on the salmon.  I might add that Pinot Noir is one of our favorite choices when having salmon.  Then the dinner ended with a Crème Brulee with assorted fresh berries.   Before the evening ended, all the guests were introduced to the chef Matt Barnes, who is a native of the Detroit area and the Midwest.

The first wine to be paired with the entrée was Domaine Levert-Barault Mercurey Cuvee L’Automne 2020 and part of Famille Picard.  Mercurey is one of the five communal titles of the Cote Chalonnaise, which is a sub-region of Burgundy, and hence the red wines are Pinot Noir.  Domaine Levert-Barault is one of the oldest wine-growing estates in Mercurey, and the Levert family dates back to the 16th Century.  The estate is a nine-and-a-half-hectare vineyard and has a couple of iconic blocks, and it was acquired by Famille Picard in 1997.  They maintain two “cuvees” Le Printemps and L’Automne which display interesting terroir.  Cuvee L’Automne comes mainly from their Les Vaux plot, with very old vines with perfect exposure and a small portion from Les Montelons on the Mercurey plateau, opposite Rully.  The Cuvee Le Printemps is in the reverse proportion.  The vines are grown organically, with mechanical work on the soil, while the fruit is hand-harvested, sorted, and totally destemmed, with the berries conveyed directly to the vat, without bruising or crushing prematurely.  Traditional Burgundy vinification, in thermos-regulated vats.  The wine is then aged for ten months in large used barrels.  A nice deep burgundy colored wine that offered notes of ripe cherries, cranberries, spices, and intense minerals.  On the palate the tones of red fruit, blending seamlessly with silky tannins, toasted oak and a medium count finish of fruit and terroir.

The second wine of the pairing and the final wine of the evening from Famille Picard was Domaine Levert-Barault Mercurey Premier Cru Champs Martin 2020.  While there are five communal titles in the appellation Cote Chalonnaise, almost a quarter of Mercurey’s vineyards are classified as a Premier Cru with thirty-two recognized for that designation.  Domaine Levert-Barault has two Cuvees and six Premier Cru wines:  Clos des Barraults, Les Combins, Champs Martin, La Vasée, Clos des Montaigus, and La Chassiere.  Champs Martin is one of the larger Premier Cru vineyards in Mercurey, and they are known for a fine white (Chardonnay) and a fine red (Pinot Noir).  The vineyard is 8.7 hectares and twenty percent is planted with Chardonnay and the balance is Pinot Noir.  Given the large size, most of the producers that have vines there, produce both a white and a red wine of note.  The Chardonnay is planted on dark marlstone soil, and the Pinot Noir is planted in the classic clay and limestone of Burgundy, but with a heavy ferrous influence in the soil.  The vineyard is at 300 meters with southern to southwestern exposure; and the vines have been planted from the 1970’s to the 1990’s.  The soil is tended by mechanical labor, but the fruit is hand-harvested, destemmed, and the berries are conveyed directly to the vat, to maintain non-bruising or premature crushing.  Traditional Burgundy vinification methods are used, as the wine initially goes into thermos-regulated vats.  Then the wine is aged for fifteen months in oak barrels, of which thirty percent is new.  The wine had a deep burgundy color that offered notes of black cherries, plums, violets, and traces of balsamic and leather.  On the palate there were tones of concentrated ripe fruit, blended with fine tannins, anise, and black pepper, mouthwatering and savory, with a nice long finish of fruit, minerals, and a whiff of smoke.  This is where the bulk of our purchase went and I can’t wait to let this wine cellar a few years more.   

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Domaine Voarick and the Second Course

Posted on June 23, 2024 by thewineraconteur

My Bride and I were at Vertical Detroit, the wine-centric restaurant owned by the wine-centric The Fine Wine Source of Livonia, Michigan. There were about twenty of us invited for a dinner and tasting of wines from Famille Picard, and while the wines were known in France, this was basically the first time in America.  For the evening Famille Picard was featuring wines from Domaine Voarick and Domaine Levert-Barault from the Burgundy region of France.   The tasting was conducted by Alexandra Sineau, the Export Director of Famille Picard, and Manou Chahmirzadi of David Milligan Selections the import house.  The Second Course was a Mushroom Risotto with varied Wild Mushrooms, Caramelized Onions, and Parmesan Cheese; it was decadent in flavor and texture.

The first wine poured to pair with the risotto was Domaine Voarick Mercurey 2019.  Domaine Voarick has wines featuring not only the appellation Mercurey, but also the designations “Under the Rocks.” Les Vignes Blanches, Premier Cru Clos du Paradis, and Premier Cru Clos du Roy.  Mercurey is one of five communal appellations in the Cote Chalonnaise and the appellation was created in 1936 for Mercury and for Saint-Martin-sous-Montaigu.  The Cote Chalonnaise was once known as the Region de Mercurey.  The appellation laws pertaining to yields are similar to the Cote de Beaune as compared to the requirements for the Cote Chalonnaise.  The wine is pure Pinot Noir on limestone soils and the vines have been planted from the 1950’s – 1980’s.  The fruit is mechanically-harvested, and is vinified in the classic Burgundian method. And is aged for twelve months in oak vats.  The wine is garnet in color and offers notes of cherry, raspberry, and currants.  On the palate there were tones of the red fruits, in a juicy blend with tight tannins and finishing with a nice smoke and terroir.  

There was another pairing with the Second Course of the meal and it was a Domaine Voarick Mercurey Premier Cru Clos du Roy 2020.  Almost twenty-five percent of Mercurey’s vineyards are classified as Premier Cru and there are thirty-two recognized and delimited climats with designations.  There are more stringent production requirements that must be achieved to use the Premier Cru designation.  It is a small climat that has natural protection from the cold, northerly winds and enjoys a more continental climate.  The soil is a limestone-clay with small stones and pebbles, which force the roots to dig deep and hence concentrated flavors.  The wine is pure Pinot Noir, and the vines have been planted from the 1950’s – 1990’s.  The fruit is mechanically-harvested, and is vinified in the classic Burgundian method.  The wine is aged for fifteen months in oak barrels, of which thirty percent is new.  The wine is a deep garnet in color and offered notes of black plums, blackberries, blueberries, and raspberries and oakiness.  On the palate tones of dark fruits, licorice, vanilla, and pepper blended with silky tannins, balanced, with a nice medium to long finish of fruit, smoke, and some saltiness.

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Domaine Voarick and the First Course

Posted on June 20, 2024 by thewineraconteur

We finally found our seats at the table for dinner at Vertical Detroit, along with the parent company of The Fine Wine Source of Livonia, Michigan.  You couldn’t as for better seats as I was seated adjacent to Manou Chahmirzadi of David Milligan Selections, across from Jim Lutfy proprietor of the two establishments, and kitty-corner from Alexandra Sineau the Export Director of Famille Picard, which is the umbrella of both Domaine Voarick and Levert-Barault; while my Bride was to my left, just absorbing all that was going on.  The first course of the meal was the Charcuterie and Cheese Plate and House-made Focaccia.  The selection of cured meats, chunks of cheeses along with Honeycomb, Grapes, Marcona Almonds, Olives, Roasted Peppers, and Whole Grain Mustard was sublime.  Several of the guests mentioned to Alexandra about the wonderful appetizer of grapes, that is a signature dish of Grapes, coated with Brie and rolled on crushed pistachios and drizzled with gastrique; and lo and behold an order appeared for her to try, which she shared some of us nearby. 

The first wine poured with the Charcuterie and Cheese Plate was Domaine Voarick Givry Blanc Cote Chalonnaise 2020.  Famille Picard Grand Vins de Bourgogne has five concept wine divisions all devoted to the Burgundy region.  Famille Picard is now located in Chassagne-Montrachet, and was founded in 1951 by Louis Felix Picard, owner of two hectares of vineyards in the commune of Chagny.  His son Michel joined him a few years later and in the early Seventies took over the family vineyard.  In the Eighties he began acquiring estates and now has one-hundred-forty-hectares over four areas between the Cote Chalonnaise and the Cote de Beaune and now under Francine Picard.  In 1991 they acquired Domaine Voarick, a sixty-eight-hectare vineyard of varied soils between Saint-Martin-sous-Montaigu and Mercurey.  Here they use the “vigneron” approach from vinification and maturity to bottling, by the necessary block-by-block work and size, and maintaining environmentally-friendly management.  Givry is one of five titled subregions (awarded in 1946) of the Cotes Chalonnaise and the Givry Blanc is rather rare as it is only ten percent of the plantings and is all Chardonnay.  The vineyards are planted on limestone-rich slopes and clay around neighboring quarries.  The fruit is mechanically harvested and undergoes traditional Burgundian fermentation in barrels and aged for ten months.  A golden colored wine that offered notes of stone fruits, apples, and a touch of citrus.  On the palate there was bright acidity from the tones of crisp fruit flavors, very balanced and refreshing with a finish of more fruit and minerality.

We then had our first red wine with the first course Domaine Voarick Bourgogne Pinot Noir Cote Chalonnaise 2019.  This wine came from numerous plots in Saint-Martin-sous-Montaigu on mostly clay-limestone soils.  The vines are quite varied as planting goes from 1960 to 2000.  A wonderful vintage for Burgundy and there were three heatwaves, so quantities were moderate and well received.  Organic vinification and classic Burgundian approach using wooden vats for fermentation and maturation for twelve months.  A ruby-red wine that offered notes of fresh cherries, strawberries, violets, leather, and spices.  On the palate moderate acidity with cherries, strawberries, and vanilla mingling with soft tannins, balanced and a decent finish of fruit.      

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A Wine Dinner at Vertical Detroit

Posted on June 17, 2024 by thewineraconteur

Vertical Detroit and The Fine Wine Source were hosting a wine dinner as they welcomed Alexandra Sineau of Famille Picard and Domaine Voarick and Manou Chahmirzadi of David Milligan Selections.  A night of Burgundian wines was the theme and the wines were through David Milligan Selections.  David Milligan Selections began in 1995, with the concept of bringing French wines he loved to the consumer. In 2006, his son joined him on the mission.  Manou oversees sales in the Midwest, and also spearheads National Accounts for the organization.

When I was at The Fine Wine Source, I was told that this was the first that they had learned about Famille Picard and Domaine Voarick, and Jim Lutfy’s knowledge is immense.  All I know is that he tried the wines in the shop, and bought every wine that was poured for him, and that usually does not happen, his palate in wines is very well regarded.  So, when I heard that my Bride and I were invited for the initial tasting along with dinner, I wanted to do some research, so imagine my surprise that the winery is unknown (retail-wise) in America.  I could find some bare-bones information and that was about it.  My curiosity was indeed whetted by this fact, and I was looking forward to meeting Alexandra Sineau, who is the Export Director for Famille Picard and Domaine Voarick.  All I could think of, is that she is going to be very busy, once the firm gets a toe-hold and is accepted into the Byzantine nature of how wine is sold in America.

We began the evening with a “Reception Wine” and while this wine was not from Burgundy, but from Provence it was another wine from David Milligan Selections.  We began with Famille Quiot Domaine Houchart Cotes de Provence Rosé 2023.  Famille Quiot is a wine producer with numerous estates in southern France.  They have been making wine since 1748, starting in Vaucluse in Chateauneuf-du-Pape at Domaine du Vieux Lazaret.  The Domaine is run by the thirteenth-generation member Jerome Quiot and what was originally a few hectares is now one-hundred-ten hectares.  In 1890, they acquired the sixty-hectare estate of Domaine Houchart near Aix-en-Provence.  The family estate has its roots and was farmed during the Roman era, and is located in the plain between Sainte Victoire and Aurelien mountains, and has its own climate.  The land is clay and limestone soils, from the decomposition of the scree from the surrounding mountains.  The wine is a blend of Cinsault, Grenache Noir, Syrah, and Tibouren; with the average age of the vines being thirty-five-years.  The fruit is harvested in September, with direct pressing for most of the varieties, with vatting for almost two weeks in I surmise Stainless-Steel to maintain freshness; the wines are bottled in December.  This salmon-pink colored wine offers notes of citrus and strawberries.  On the palate the wine offers tones of red currants, watermelon, with great acidity and ending with a nice medium count finish of fruit and terroir.     

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Fine Wine Source Club Selections – June 2024

Posted on June 14, 2024 by thewineraconteur

Once a month I go to my favorite wine shop The Fine Wine Source of Livonia, Michigan to pick up the club selections, of course by now, you realize that I tend to stop there more often than once a month.  They were quite busy there with the logistics of receiving about twenty cases of wine for an upcoming wine tasting.  I was also getting some information for a friend that had asked me a question, that I wanted to double-check on, as I try never to presume.   I was actually early for the wine club selections, but since they were prepared, they forgave me, and even poured a couple of wines for my opinion.

The club selections always begin with a wine from the Old World and we began with Domaine de Coste Chaude Cotes du Rhone Villages Visan Trilogy 2017.  The commune of Visan became a named Cotes du Rhone Villages designation in 1966 and is known predominately for its Grenache and Syrah based wines, but it also covers the rosé and white wines.  Visan is one of twenty-two favored locations that may append their name to Cotes du Rhone Villages; which would be two steps up from the generic Cotes du Rhone, but a step below “Cru” status.  The village of Visan forms part of the ancient Papal enclave formed in the 14th Century when Pope Clement V moved his seat to Avignon (Chateauneuf-du-Pape).  Domaine de Coste Chaude was founded in the 1960’s and encompasses twenty-three hectares of gravel and clay covered with rolled pebbles at an altitude of 360 meters.  The vineyard was taken over by Marc and Marianne Fues in 1994, and they converted it to organic agriculture certified by Ecocert. In 2018, the domaine was acquired by Vincent Tramier.  The wine is one-third Roussanne, one-third Viognier and one-third Grenache Blanc. The fruit is hand harvested in the evenings, and undergoes gentle and progressive pressing.  The juice then is clarified by natural sedimentation before cold Initial Fermentation.  Twenty percent of the wine is aged in double barrels, and eighty percent remains in Stainless Steel tanks probably for about nine months.  A shiny golden wine that offers notes of white fruits, white florals, wet stones, and dash of grapefruit zest.  On the palate, tones of grapefruit, off set with some sweet lemony acidity in a well-rounded and fresh wine that has a medium-count finish of fruit and terroir.  I have to admit that I have not only tasted this wine, but have already laid some down in our cellar collection.

For the New World there was a bottle of Donati Family Vineyard Merlot Paso Robles 2021.  The Donati family started arriving in the Paicines region of the Central Coast in 1998, when they purchased the land that would become the family estate and vineyard.  Since then, they have planted the vineyards and built a state-of-the-art winery.  Paicines is the southernmost AVA in the San Benito County and in the 1980’s and 1990’s the area was associated with the production of bulk wines, but a few wineries are attempting to correct that image.  To this day, much of the fruit is grown and then sent to wineries in other parts of California.  It is still home to the five-hundred-acre Vista Verde Vineyard that was previously owned by Almaden Vineyards, before the company was sold and split up in the 1980’s.  The sandy soils of gravel and limestone have forced the vines to develop deep root systems, because of the good drainage and has strengthened the vines.  This wine is ninety-nine percent Merlot and one percent Cabernet Sauvignon.  The wine began with Initial Fermentation in Stainless Steel with twice daily punch-downs.  Then is aged for eighteen months in a mixture of wood, of which seven percent is new French Oak, twenty-two percent is new American Oak and seven percent is new Eastern European Oak.  There were eight-hundred-forty-eight cases produced.  The wine is described as having notes of cherry, blueberries, plums, and spices.  On the palate there are tones of the above fruits along with white chocolate, hazelnut, Crème de Cocoa with a good medium finish featuring fruit and toasted oak.

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A Lunch with Mr. G.

Posted on June 11, 2024 by thewineraconteur

Believe it or not, there are times when I don’t have wine, even when we are out, usually because the selection is not what I think that it should be.  Now Mr. G., and not Dobie Gillis’ father was a Social Studies teacher to me at Woodrow Wilson Junior High School in Detroit.  And back then, Social Studies encompassed History, Civics, and Government; there could be more, but that was more than fifty years ago, so I can be a bit fuzzy.  Mr. G., went on to become a Vice Principal at Western High School, but he was the type of educator that every student should have.  He took an interest in teaching, and he remembered his students and he was also very civic-minded for the community.  On social media, I saw that a lunch was being planned for this teacher and I knew that I was going to go, and I asked my Bride if she wanted to go as well, and she accepted the offer.

We were all going to meet at Mexican-American restaurant in the old neighborhood, about a mile or so from the Junior High that created this bond for everyone.  Some of his relatives and family also attended the luncheon, and I am not sure, but I think they were originally going to have a surprise party, but it was decided against.  Now Mr. G., and his brother were even instrumental in getting a regulation ice rink built in the park, across the street from Western High School, and really was instrumental in introducing a large segment of Latino-Americans into the sport of hockey, which one doesn’t immediately associate with that group, and I am not showing a bias.  He and his brother were avid hockey fans, and once the rink was completed, the Detroit Red Wings even play a couple of exhibition games there, which is extremely popular with the locals and beyond.  I do tend to wander a bit, when I am writing a none wine memory article, but in over twelve years, I don’t do it that often.  My Bride had a Shrimp Fajitas dinner, and I was happy as they had Chicken Enchiladas with Molé Sauce.  The waitress did a magnificent job keeping all the individual tabs proper.  If they would have offered Mexican wines, that is what I would have had for this fun event, they didn’t we had Margaritas, my Bride has no salt, and mine is with.

To give you an idea, of how committed Mr. G., was as a teacher, when they had the first Wilson Junior High All-Year Reunion, and the first was at a large bar and our group was all seated in one section, he came with another teacher, the music instructor and he brought one of his saxophones and sat in with the band that was entertaining that night at the bar.  They also attended a couple of other reunions after that, and both teachers remembered their students, while the teachers really hadn’t changed, the students had, and yet for the most part, we were all remembered.  The last time, before this luncheon, I saw Mr. G., when all the students were allowed a walk-through at Wilson and talk about Kodak moments, tears and laughter abounded.  I got there a little late, as I was still part of the gainfully employed, as opposed to being gainfully retired that I am now.  After the luncheon as were driving home I pointed to the grassy field that used to be Woodrow Wilson Junior High and I am glad that I was part of the group that acquired a speaker’s podium from the school and the award plaque from the gifted flagpole from an earlier parent’s group that was on the front lawn.  I am just glad that over the years I have had the good fortune to encounter some of my teachers from elementary school on through college, but only a few can still celebrate and that is one of the pleasures of life.   

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Three More Italian Wines During the Tasting

Posted on June 8, 2024 by thewineraconteur

It is always a pleasure to go to any wine tasting at The Fine Wine Source in Livonia, Michigan.  The tasting was centered on the wines of Bibi Graetz, but I had a chance to try three other wines from Italy that were not from that winemaker, and everyone was very enthusiastic.

We had a Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis DOCG 2022.  Bruno Giacosa is a famous wine producer based in Piedmont and is known for his intensely perfumed, textured wines with the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations. He began, first by buying grapes for his father’s wines when he was fifteen.   By 1960, he was ready to begin his own business as a principal producer in Barbaresco.  In 1964, he was the first producer in Piedmont to bottle a single vineyard “cru” from the Santo Stefano Vineyard.  His own standards are such, that in 2006 and 2010 he sold his grapes in bulk, rather than bottle them.  Most of his fruit for years were from trusted growers, instead of estate vineyards.  In 1982, he purchased the Fallet Vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba and he built a winery, followed by plots in La Morra and some plots in Barbaresco.  He has twenty hectares and these wines are labeled “Azienda Agricola Falletto,” and the wines made from purchased grapes are “Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa.”  He passed away in 2018 at the age of 88, and the legacy has been continued by his daughter Bruna.  The Roero Arneis 2022 is pure Arneis from historical partner-growers and suppliers.  The approach of having intensely aromatic wines continues with this varietal, which is locally referred to as “the white Nebbiolo.”  The fruit is harvested from plots composed of mainly sandstone and marl and spontaneous fermentation and maturation take place in Stainless-Steel tanks for four months, to preserve the freshness of the grapes, and is one of the few white wines made by the house.  The wine is a deep straw color with intense notes of white fruits, tropical fruits, white florals, almonds, minerals, and medicinal herbs.  On the palate there are tones of pineapple, lemon, peach, and apricot in a full-bodied wine and ends with a big medium count finish of almonds and terroir.  An amazing wine.

Another white wine that we had was Donnafugata Sul Vulcano Etna Bianco DOC 2020.  Donnafugata is a wine company based in Sicily, by the Rallo family who have a history of winemaking going back to the 19th Century.  Donnafugata was established in 1983 by Giacomo and Gabriella Rallo and is now in the hand of their children.  They have five different wineries located in different sub-regions of Sicily, including on the neighboring island of Pantelleria.  The wineries use both indigenous varieties and international favorites and they produce both DOC and IGT wines, because of the grapes that they grow.  They have about three-hundred-thirty-eight hectares of vineyards between the islands of Sicily and Pantelleria.  This wine is pure Carricante, an ancient grape varietal really only found on eastern Sicily on the volcanic slopes of Mt. Etna for at least a thousand years; there is about two-hundred hectares planted with this grape.  The grape is known for its acidity and high yields, and grows best in volcanic soil and high altitude.  It is the key grape in Etna DOC and can be found in the other designations of Sicily.  It is also known as Catanese Bianco and Catarratto.  The fruit is manually harvesting into crates, and fully inspected in the vineyard.  The juice undergoes Initial fermentation in Stainless-Steel tanks, and then ages for ten months in Stainless-Steel tanks and partially in used French barriques, followed by twelve months in bottles, before release.  A straw-colored wine that offered notes of green apples, mandarin oranges, eucalyptus, flint, honey, and hay.  On the palate a delightful savory wine of fruit, citrus, blended with fresh acidity, refreshing salinity and a nice medium count finish of a salty quartz terroir.  A really enjoyable wine.

We then had Podere il Palazzino Argenina Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2019.  Podere il Palazzino has been owned by the Sderci family since the middle of the 19th Century and famed for their Sangiovese grapes, and single vineyards.  Originally, because of the rules for Chianti Classico, their wines were sold as Vino da Tavola, and after the changes of the appellation rules of 1992 and 1995, they went from Toscana IGT to Chianti Classico.  They own about twenty hectares in the Gaiole Municipality basically planted with Sangiovese (between fifteen to thirty years of age) with small plots of Colorino, Malvasia Bianca and a small grove of olives.  They have built a new winery, underground cellars, replanted some of the plots, and are basically all natural, and artisanal, with chemicals being banned.  Argenina is one of the oldest hamlets in the town of Monti, where they have three hectares at 310-375 meters above sea level on volcanic tuffaceous soil.  The wine is pure Sangiovese, hand-harvested and Initial Fermentation is done in Stainless-Steel vats at a low temperature to preserve the primary aromas of the grapes with indigenous yeasts and the Malolactic Fermentation is also natural.  This wine was originally designated as “Annata” or regular Chianti Classico, but since the new appellation rules of 2013, the wine has been elevated to Gran Selezione status as it is from a single estate, committed to quality and aged for thirty months in used barriques.  A ruby-red colored wine that offers notes of black cherry, plums, violets, cocoa, vanilla, and sandalwood.  On the palate, a medium-bodied wine with intense tones of black cherry, plums, mixed with sweet tannins, some pepper, and cloves, with a nice finish of fruit and terroir.  

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Bibi Graetz: Colore Collezione Verticale

Posted on June 5, 2024 by thewineraconteur

A wonderful tasting of wines from Bibi Graetz was going on at my local wine shop The Fine Wine Source in Livonia, Michigan.  The final three wines offered were his Colore wine done as a vertical collection tasting.  This tasting was celebrating Bibi Graetz’s Twentieth Vintage.  “Colore is my passion, my dream and the pinnacle of what we produce each year at Bibi Graetz.  Colore truly embodies the essence of our wine making philosophy – working with native Tuscan varieties like Sangiovese, Colorino, and Canaiolo; harvesting grapes from our 80 – 135-year-old vine; and artisanal farming and winemaking – working with vineyards owned by generations of local families.”

We started with the Bibi Graetz Colore Rosso Toscana IGT 2015.  This wine has never been available in the USA and is now only available as a component of the boxed Collezione Verticale, so it was a pleasure tasting this wine, as well as all the wines this evening.  The wine is a blend of eighty percent Sangiovese, ten percent Canaiolo, and ten percent Colorino.  The fruit for this wine was all hand-harvested from eighty-year-old vines from the Lamole Vineyard (located in Chianti Classico), Vincigliata Vineyard (located in Firenze), and the Siena Vineyard (just south of Tuscany).  All three of the vineyards offered soil rich in Galestro (a friable rock that is silt and marl clay with intercalated layers of limestone) and clay, the famed soil of Tuscany.  Each parcel was kept separated with its own harvesting, destemming, gentle pressing, with Initial Fermentation using indigenous yeast with about eight manual punch-downs a day for about two weeks, with an additional week of maceration on the skins.  The wine was then transferred to barriques for Malolactic Fermentation and the assorted barriques were kept separate for almost three years, before the blending was decided on. A nice deep garnet red wine that offered notes of black fruit, spices, and sous bois.  I couldn’t get over how fresh this wine was for being 2015 and it offered tones of plums, cherries, spices, with a secondary flavor of leather and mocha.  This wine received plenty of approvals from the other tasters and it could probably be over the top in another ten years.

We then had the Bibi Graetz Colore Rossso Toscana IGT 2016 and this was a great vintage for the area.  This wine is a blend of eighty percent Sangiovese, ten percent Canaiolo, and ten percent Colorino and all from at least eighty-year-old vines.  The fruit was harvested from Lamole Vineyard (located in Chianti Classico), Vincigliata Vineyard (located in Firenze), and Siena Vineyard (just south of Tuscany); and all three vineyards offered soil rich in Galestro and clay, that is the prized soil of Tuscany.  Each parcel in the vineyards is individually hand-harvested, over multiple pass throughs, destemming, gentle pressing, with Initial Fermentation using indigenous yeast with about eight manual punch-downs for about three weeks, followed by another week of maceration, and then an additional three weeks of skin contact.  Once complete, seventy percent of the wine was moved to barriques of which half were new abend sourced from Burgundy.  The remaining thirty percent went into cement tanks.  All the wines were then aged for almost three years, before blending and bottling.  A beautiful deep ruby red wine that offered notes of black and red fruits, and then some notes of leather, cloves, and tobacco.  On the palate this was a big wine, full and robust, very chewy with black cherries, plums, some raspberries all blended with silky tannins and perfect acidity and a very long finish of balsamic and strong terroir.  I found this wine to be wonderful and captivating, but still needing about ten years of cellaring for strong and interesting secondary and tertiary notes and tones.

We finished the vertical run with Bibi Graetz Colore Rosso Toscana IGT 2020, and the Colore is his “dream” as the highest expression for Bibi Graetz.  From the very old vineyards, the poor soils, and the high altitudes all combine for the perfect terroir of Tuscany, and only a few barrels will become Colore.  There were three new elements for the 2020 vintage.  First the climate, was perfect for the region, creating a great season and vintage.  There was a new vineyard in Olmo di Fiesole, that brought a new depth of freshness with its terroir and at an altitude of 420 meters.  Third, was a new winery built in Fiesole to do the work in a comfortable manner.  With hand-harvesting, and an additional vineyard, the harvest lasted three weeks to pick all the grapes at the perfect time.  All the Sangiovese grapes were now from: Lamole Vineyard, Vincigliata Vineyard, Olmo di Fiesole Vineyard, and Siena Vineyard.  There were up to eight harvest per vineyard in selecting the grapes, with a secondary inspection before destemming, then a gentle press and the juice went to open-top barriques for each plot and parcel.  Initial Fermentation occurs using indigenous yeasts, with six to eight manual punch-downs a day for two weeks, followed by another week of maceration on the skins.  Then each of the juices are transferred to old barriques, where the Malolactic Fermentation occurs and the juice is aged separately for about twenty months, prior to the art of blending, and an additional six months of aging in the bottle, before distribution.  This wine was a bright ruby color which offered notes of dark and red fruits, rhubarb, florals, and spices.  On the palate a fresh and smooth (suave) wine that is full-bodied offering beautiful tones of cherries, raspberries, orange peel blended with polished tannins and a nice lingering finish of terroir.  This wine was four to five years younger and it was great to appreciate what it will mature to, in comparison.  This wine reminded me of the 2015 which got total rave reviews, so I would opine that in fifteen to twenty years this will be a stellar wine for the books.  A wonderful tasting experience for everyone involved.    

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